efhatch

Okay just got the b16 swap done in my 89 dx. Took it for it's first drive and the car shakes and sounds like a fuckin helicopter when I'm driving it down the road. It's coming from the suspension but I'm on my way to work right now so I don't really have the time today to tear it apart and find out what's wrong, but just thought I'd ask the forum and see if there is anything that jumps out to y'all

CaliDELSOL93si

motor mounts are HUGE. I ended paying extra for Hasport after my b16 did the exact same thing. It was horrible. I suggest definately replacing motor mounts (or atleast getting the polyurethane motor mount inserts) and checking the suspension. Is the car lowered at all ??? I know mine was lowered about 2.5 inches on crappy coilovers and stock (blown shocks) and i ended up raising them about an inch, and to be honest, that helped solve the problem.

Things to do first:
Check Motor Mounts (My rear motor mount near the firewall was the worst)
Check suspension, alignment, etc...

Let me know if all this doesn't work out and i will try and come up with some other ideas

97civicEXVTEC

defintately check the rear mount.. for some reason thats the one that shakes the most

RedlineBoyzCRX

This is sorta off topic, but sorta not. My friend bought his SRT-4 and it had really bad wheel hop. He then got the polyurethane motor mounts put in, and the wheel hop complety stopped. It just shows how important motor mounts are.

efhatch

I don't think it's the motor mounts, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the wheels, I did some more reading when I was at work and I read that if you don't remove the dust sheilds from the wheel the hubs the wheels won't spin freely, so I think that's where I'm going to start, the mounts crossed my mind as well, but it really feels like it wheel or suspension related, yes the car is lowered on 1.5 tien s-techs, I switched over from the dx rotors to rotors from a crx si, it also sems possible that the wheels are hitting the caliper... because the calipers are bigger from the si right? I can't even remember what the damn dx brakes looked like in comparision to the wheels....... dammit

DreamOfTheFlood

I have this problem with my B16A CRX. At idle, it's like sitting on a damn vibrator--everything in the car rattles, and you definitely find out what's not tightened down. It smoothes out above about 1500 rpm. The word I hear is that many, if not most, B16A swaps in EFs do this, due to the solid polyurethane bushings in the swap mounts. The B16A in mine was installed with a Place Racing 3-mount kit, and the suspension is at stock ride height. I could live with the vibration for a while (if the car wasn't crapping out in other ways), but I'll eventually have to do something. What I'm thinking of at present is pulling the mounts out one by one, punching the polyurethane inserts out of them, cutting grooves in the outside diameter of the bushings with a router or dado or something, and reinstalling them. I've noticed that many OEM suspension and engine mount bushings are like this, and I assume that it allows for greater bushing flex and thereby greater vibration dampening. I realize that this might cause problems in a full tilt drag racing application by allowing the engine to torque over too much, but I have no plans to ever drag this car.

Troy
1989 CRX Si B16A
Squalor, Austin, Texas

"After a couple of drinks I'll think straight." -- Tones On Tail

madman4you

buddy the exact same thing happen to me when i first did my swap. although i need the get a new header, it all kinda went away after about a few weeks of steady driving. i think you should drive it for a bit and see if it continues as strong in a few weeks.

daddiodanger

i had a similiar problem with my b16 swap. it turned out that the crossmember beneath the rear mount bracket has a lip which needed to be bent down. the rear bracket was resting on the lip which in a way eliminated the rear mounts ability to work properly. ass the engine torqued the vibaration would come and go.
to fix the problem i removed the rear bracket and beat the crap out if the lip till it was flat against the crossmember. now it isn't a problem.

oh and makesure to replace all the bolts for the bracket. i left one out and when i accelerated the shifter would go crazy.