Hey guys, i just got my swap a couple of weeks back, and it's in IMMACULATE condition. No knocks, noises, codes, NOTHING. If anyone needs a swap, I would highly recommend hmotorsonline. They have great service there, and have a great rep, and of course, great engines. Check out the b16 I got from them:


Hasport mounts on that sucker! They may be a little pricey, but they're damn near unbreakable! If anyone needs help with the swap, pm me.

 

How much did you pay for the whole swap? Also, whats your redline & hows your clutch & tranny. Your valve cover looks good not faded all black. You dont have lsd do you?

 

Looks real clean man... Congrats...

Gingas: Redline on a B16 is 8200 RPM...

 

I'm looking for a swap, and I am debating between a first gen B16 or an ODB0 B18.

I want to do an ls/vtec in my 1990 CRX but I don't want to have to convert it to hydro clutch and OBD1. :[

Can't find anyone with the right generation B18 though.

 

You can buy a B18 engine, and slap on a cable B16 tranny... Wont have to convert... I personally would go with the B18... But either is a nice swap...

 

What about the OBD0 to OBD1? Would I have to do that? Even so, would it be necessary?

I am trying to do a LS/VTEC swap, with as little extra cost (aside from buying new parts) as possible.

 

Tho im not too familiar with the setup personally... I dont see why youd need to go OBD1, since there is an OBD0 ECU that has VTEC (PR4 or PW0), you should be able to use that instead of converting... I think the only reason why you have to go OBD1 with a D series VTEC engine is because there is no compatible OBD0 ECU...

 

I paid 1499 for the complete changeover, then 300 for the hasport mounts, and 60 for the hasport sub harness. Steve at hmotors said i wouldn't need the linkage, since it bolts right on to my rex, and thats it! All in all, with shipping, i paid $2034. With misc. parts(fluids,plugs,etc.), and a few parts that broke (tie rod, battery), my total budget was about 2300-2400. Not bad compared to the 4000 that regulate wants over here! My clutch is a bit worn, but should work for another year or so, depending on how i drive it .
The engine came in fantastic condition. No knocks, no stalling, no broken sensors, not even that infamous "ticking" problem that these engines are prone to having. Also, no my transmission is not lsd. I didn't have money for it at the time, although down the road i'm prolly gonna hit Steve up for one.

 

If you buy a b18 block from a 90-93 integra ls, and head from a 1st gen b16, you won't need to run obd1, you can stick with obd0. It all depends on what year you get the head from, because the distributor determines the obd you'll have to run. Personally, unless you're really good with engines, I wouldn't do an ls/vtec swap. I ran into the same debate before I made my decision. I did TONS of research, and found that ls/vtec swaps aren't the most cost effective/reliable swaps out there, and i'm assuming that's what you're looking for.

Oh yeah, my redline was 7.2k, because vtec wasn't functioning. Now with everything working great, I can take it all the way to 8.2k! Thanks for the props exempt!

 

Does it have to be the B18 block from the 90-93? According to what someone else said, as long as I find a head running the OBD0, wouldn't it be fine?

And cost effecient isn't exactly what I am worried about. I think it might cost about the same, if not a little less to do an OBD0 ls/vtec. I'm trying to get more torque out of the engine.