pc_in_al

I've got to replace the transmission (5 spd) in my '90 CRX Si. I don't know how to identify these things and am looking for some help. What do I look for to know that I'm getting an Si/1600 tranny?

((A call to the local Honda dealership gave nothing. Surprise, surprise, eh?))

Thanks.

ChrisS

Look at the silver sticker on the transmission (between the front engine mount and the top radiator hose on the bell housing for the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate). It lists the transmission model and ID#. (probably L3)

jlicrx

DETERMINING WHICH TRANSMISSION YOU HAVE

1. All 88-91 Civic/CRX transmissions are Model L3. Some 91’s are labelled SL3 (the sticker is on the top), but are still the same transmission.

2. You cannot tell what model of car (Si, DX, HF, LX, EX or even 4-speed STD) the transmission was initially installed in by just looking at the outside of the transmission. The only exception to this is the 88-91 JDM ZC L3 transmission. The splined holes in the differential where the axles are inserted are a larger diameter on the ZC transmission. All other L3’s have the same size smaller splined hole for the axles.

3. You may read at various sites on the Internet that you can tell what model the transmission is by looking at the numbers in the circle by the oil fill plug. You will read something like, “if it says PL3/3000, it is Si” or “if it says PL3/A000, it is DX, etc.” This is not necessarily true! If it says PL3/3000, it could be Si, but it could also be a DX or ZC. These numbers are casting numbers for the back half of the transmission case and are not necessarily an indication of which Final Drive gears are inside.

4. There are two ways to tell which Final Drive gears your transmission has – you can open it up and count the teeth on the gears, or you can use the following procedure:

Transmission Out of Car

A. Shift the transmission into reverse. To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver and insert it through the hole in the shift arm shaft that projects out of the transmission (where the shift linkage connects) and when looking at the end of this shaft, rotate the shaft to the right and push the shaft in. Check to see if it is in reverse by looking at the differential (where the axles go in) while rotating the input shaft. The differential should be turning in the opposite direction from the input shaft.

B. Take a paint pen or marker and place a reference mark at the 12 o’clock position on the differential and another mark at the 12 o’clock position on the input shaft. Rotate the input shaft and count the number of revolutions that the input shaft makes in order to rotate the differential exactly one complete turn. The number of revolutions will tell you which Final Drive you have. (See Chart Below)

Transmission In Car

A. Jack up front driver’s side of car and place a jack stand under it. Shift the transmission into reverse.

B. Take a paint pen or marker and place a reference mark at the 12 o’clock position on the driver’s side tire and another mark at the 12 o’clock position on the crankshaft pulley. Using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the engine counterclockwise and count the number of revolutions that the cranshaft pulley makes in order to rotate the tire exactly one complete turn. The number of revolutions will tell you which Final Drive you have. (See Chart Below)

10.25 Revolutions = HF (Originally sold in California)
11.89 Revolutions = HF (Sold Everywhere but Calif.)
12.25 Revolutions = DX (or ZC)
13.40 Revolutions = Si

pc_in_al

Thanks for the perfect info. That'll leave nothing to chance that way, eh? I did find the sticker on the lip of the bell housing at the block end. This tranny has seen some weather and dirt: I hope that's not a big detriment to operation of the tranny. It cleaned up well. It still has oil inside, although that milky-gray color indicates a good bit of water got mixed in there, yeah? Think it'll be okay? Looking into the axle holes, I could see the bearings are still shiny steel.

The sticker on the bell housing showed L3-2xxxxxx, but I'm going to check the gear ratio to be sure that the tranny is correct for the car. Hopefully, she'll be back on the road soon!

PO,
Paul C.
Huntsville, AL

pc_in_al

Okay... the saga continues...

Apparently, I've been sold the wrong tranny.

Posting another thread RE differences.

Thanks for the help!!

PO,
Paul C.
Huntsville, AL

pc_in_al

Okay... I've found another tranny, but the ratio in reverse SEEMS to be 13.00 to 1. I say SEEMS because part of the axle is still stuck in the transaxle and I don't know if that will create drag - could the ratio actually be higher and once I get that axle out it'll be "correct?"

So far, I've had a hard time getting that axle out of the trans - it's really kinda stuck! I've just gotten a pair of pry bars from my neighbor to see if I can get that thing out of there. Wish me luck!

Any advice on that?

Thanks again!
Paul

Tankard

If your talking about getting the cv joint out of the tranny in the car, a big flat headed screwdriver or the flat end of a crow bar works. Just stick it between the tranny and cv joint and wiggle. Of course, this is after you undo the wheel thing from the other end of the cv joint. Maybe i misunderstood your question, but that's worked everytime for me.

ChrisS

I had a similar problem removing one axle from my CRX. (when I got it out and checked the c-clip, it was fairly soft steel instead of hardened spring steel; that soft steel c-clip caused the hang up when removing the axle.) Go to the dealer and buy a replacement c-clip. (it will save you future headaches.)

Remember, it's a snap action when using the pry bar (_not_ constant force).

pc_in_al

With a good bit of prying me and my neighbor were able to get it to slide slowly out with constant force. hmmm maybe that c-clip was holding me up? Anyhow, it's out. But, the ratio is still the same 13:1. I don't know that this is the right tranny. hmmmm

jlicrx

sounds like transmission from 90-91 Civic EX - final drive on that transmission is slightly lower than the Si