How long can it last?
I'm gonna be replacing my 91 civic hatch engine because it has either bad rings, pistons or head. It smokes intermittently but runs and drives fine. Does anyone know how long it will last (engine) until I won't be able to drive it anymore because either it will smoke too much (Colorado emission laws) or because it will mechanically not be drivable for some reason? What usually happens to the engine if rings/pistons/head is bad eventually if ignored, which it will be until I get money saved to get swap done? does it blow or what? It has been doing this for at least 6 months or more already...Kai are you out there? please help!
As long as you keep checking the oil and keep the level right, and don't drive the crap out of it, it will usually last quite a while like that. My mazda pickup has been burning a good amount of oil for over 80k. I would say one of your biggest fears should be running out of oil, so keep checking it, cause if you run too low that's when your motor will fail.
If it's a oil smoke, you'll could be fine for another 50k+ until it really starts to puke.
If it's a coolant smoke, like a head gasket or cracked head, it's anyone's guess. It could overheat and seize at any time, so keep an eye on your coolant level, coolant condition, and the temp gauge.
Most states will automatically fail your emissions tests for blowing visible smoke.
If it's a coolant smoke, like a head gasket or cracked head, it's anyone's guess. It could overheat and seize at any time, so keep an eye on your coolant level, coolant condition, and the temp gauge.
Most states will automatically fail your emissions tests for blowing visible smoke.
Originally Posted by Kai
If it's a oil smoke, you'll could be fine for another 50k+ until it really starts to puke.
If it's a coolant smoke, like a head gasket or cracked head, it's anyone's guess. It could overheat and seize at any time, so keep an eye on your coolant level, coolant condition, and the temp gauge.
Most states will automatically fail your emissions tests for blowing visible smoke.
If it's a coolant smoke, like a head gasket or cracked head, it's anyone's guess. It could overheat and seize at any time, so keep an eye on your coolant level, coolant condition, and the temp gauge.
Most states will automatically fail your emissions tests for blowing visible smoke.
Do you believe in stop smoke (when going to do emissions) or will it hurt the car any worse then it is already? Also when I get another engine if I have then do clutch, timing belt and water pump what else would be smart to do at the time of install to make sure I get a good start with the next engine and then would I just follow manual to make sure it is maintained well?
It could be the rings, the valve stem seals, or a bad headgasket... It's usually a toss-up between the rings and valve seals, they usually go around the same time making a full engine rebuild nessicary.
You should also throw in a new fuel filter just because, and might as well add a timing belt tensioner.
You should also throw in a new fuel filter just because, and might as well add a timing belt tensioner.
Originally Posted by Kai
It could be the rings, the valve stem seals, or a bad headgasket... It's usually a toss-up between the rings and valve seals, they usually go around the same time making a full engine rebuild nessicary.
You should also throw in a new fuel filter just because, and might as well add a timing belt tensioner.
You should also throw in a new fuel filter just because, and might as well add a timing belt tensioner.
but would you (if you couldn't fix the car yourself and had to wait to get the funds to do the replacement) use stop smoke to get it to passs emissions or just to stop smoking in general? will it harm the car?
if you are borderline on emissions...what you could do is change the oil to a thicker (higher viscosity) variant if you need to pass emissions...something like a 20w40 or a 20w50...however if you are in a cold climate (colorado) it makes cold starts very difficult as the oil is thicker (back in the old days you'd use a thicker aka higher viscosity oil in summer & warmer months and thinner in winter - it was a trial & error to find out what oil to use for the seasons)
Last edited by jaje; Nov 30, 2004 at 09:00 AM.
Originally Posted by 91_CiViC_RiDeR
Just keep about 5 5gallons of oil and coolant in your car just in case, Until you are able to get your swap....My suggestion!! 



