Ok, so now i'm really confused *oil burning*
10-18-2004, 11:32 AM
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Ok, so now i'm really confused *oil burning*
I started out trying to get an engine cuz my 91 civic hatch dx 1.5 with 166,000 miles is burning oil and smoking and my emissions is due in January.
It smokes blue-ish grey smoke, everyday but not constantly-it puffs a huge puff when I take off from a light or start the car sometimes, then smokes here and there when I shift or excellerate (at varying degrees sometimes worse than others). But I at least see some smoke everyday thru my rear window, sometimes it looks like my cars on fire theres so much smoke! Other times I drive it and its fine for a while no smoke that I can see. I go through 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks or so.
My cars engine appears to be in great condition otherwise, not a drop of oil anywhere from leaks that I can see. It runs so smooth like butter mostly. I maintained the car well since I have owned it for the past 5 years. I use Valvoline Max life 10w30.
I've been told by mechanics that a car the burns oil needs an engine but others say could be just rings.
One Honda specialist said doesn't think it needs an engine probably just dirty rings, valves or intake (& some other things I can't remember names for-i'm a girl who knows little about cars) he'd clean these things for $70 and if I had them cleaned a couple times he believes that would fix or help the problem.
Someone on here told me to see what problems cause excessive oil burning and locate the problem within the engine (ie: rings, etc).
I hate to get rid of a good engine, I think my engine might not be bad but don't even know where to start or what to believe now.
Can anyone here please help me? It's drivin' me nuts!
It smokes blue-ish grey smoke, everyday but not constantly-it puffs a huge puff when I take off from a light or start the car sometimes, then smokes here and there when I shift or excellerate (at varying degrees sometimes worse than others). But I at least see some smoke everyday thru my rear window, sometimes it looks like my cars on fire theres so much smoke! Other times I drive it and its fine for a while no smoke that I can see. I go through 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks or so.
My cars engine appears to be in great condition otherwise, not a drop of oil anywhere from leaks that I can see. It runs so smooth like butter mostly. I maintained the car well since I have owned it for the past 5 years. I use Valvoline Max life 10w30.
I've been told by mechanics that a car the burns oil needs an engine but others say could be just rings.
One Honda specialist said doesn't think it needs an engine probably just dirty rings, valves or intake (& some other things I can't remember names for-i'm a girl who knows little about cars) he'd clean these things for $70 and if I had them cleaned a couple times he believes that would fix or help the problem.
Someone on here told me to see what problems cause excessive oil burning and locate the problem within the engine (ie: rings, etc).
I hate to get rid of a good engine, I think my engine might not be bad but don't even know where to start or what to believe now.
Can anyone here please help me? It's drivin' me nuts!
10-18-2004, 12:40 PM
#2
Civilian
Well, in order to locate the problem you'd have to be willing to take apart your block and inspect it. What year is your car and what version, ie. ex, dx, ect.?
Edit: Nevermind, It's a 91 DX. My suggestion is if you really want to stick with this motor, just have a mech take a look at it for you. It may cost a little for labor because he'll have to lift out your block and inspect it, but it may be more costly to swap motors in the long run. Especially if the only problem you have is some bad piston rings.
Judging from your symptoms, I'd have to say you most likely have some bad piston rings. They're probably not forming the proper seal, are worn, and need replacing. But the only way you'll really know is if you have a look at what's going on in there.
Edit: Nevermind, It's a 91 DX. My suggestion is if you really want to stick with this motor, just have a mech take a look at it for you. It may cost a little for labor because he'll have to lift out your block and inspect it, but it may be more costly to swap motors in the long run. Especially if the only problem you have is some bad piston rings.
Judging from your symptoms, I'd have to say you most likely have some bad piston rings. They're probably not forming the proper seal, are worn, and need replacing. But the only way you'll really know is if you have a look at what's going on in there.
10-18-2004, 01:12 PM
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but should I?
If I find whether its the pistons/rings then would it be a lot less expensive to fix that then swapping an engine?
Looking at the risk factor/cons for future problems I may have if I either get another engine and have it installed or fix the problem mine has here are two cons I thought of, one for fixing my engine the other for getting another engine:
1. how long will my engine last after I replace the rings/pistons? Will I have other major problems after this major work is done...
2. If I opt for another engine (I can only afford to get a used one) you never can be sure what problems may be with the new-to-me engine (maybe same ones or worse?) than what I have with my current engine?....
What is the lesser of the two eveils or what would give me better odds of longevity with my car?
What would you do if these were your options???
Looking at the risk factor/cons for future problems I may have if I either get another engine and have it installed or fix the problem mine has here are two cons I thought of, one for fixing my engine the other for getting another engine:
1. how long will my engine last after I replace the rings/pistons? Will I have other major problems after this major work is done...
2. If I opt for another engine (I can only afford to get a used one) you never can be sure what problems may be with the new-to-me engine (maybe same ones or worse?) than what I have with my current engine?....
What is the lesser of the two eveils or what would give me better odds of longevity with my car?
What would you do if these were your options???
10-18-2004, 09:47 PM
#4
Civilian
If I was in your shoes I'd definitely try to fix what's wrong with my current motor. The labor the a mechanic will charge to swap an entire motor will be greater than that of a repair job on your pistons. Also, if you opt for a motor swap, the mechanic is just going to go to a salvage yard and find one anyway. You have a honda, your motor will last as long as you take care of it.
10-19-2004, 06:12 AM
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how much should I pay for a ring job maximum and how long should it take someone to do it? What all is involved in the job? and is there anything I should make sure they do when they do the rings?
Last edited by redcivicforever; 10-19-2004 at 06:16 AM. Reason: Thanks guys for the info and help!
10-19-2004, 07:16 AM
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Time to consider buying the HELM manual (helminc.com) for your car. I agree that the current engine should be fine once the needed work is done. You are describing either rings or stem seals. The seals in the head are not hard to do. The rings will require that the engine either be removed or that the tech simply pull the head and pan and do it that way-if there is enough room under the car. Pulling the cylinder head is going to take time, but is not difficult.
BEFORE you start get a Compression test and Leakdown test done. These should not cost more than $100 and will tell you what cylinders are not in spec. Honda engines DO last for a considerable amount of time and miles with proper care. My CRX has 176K on the Odometer and we think the engine is original. Whatever you decide, make sure to replace the Timing Belt, Water Pump and other accessory belts. THis is very important to do. You may even want to replace all of the hoses if they are original to the car. These things will add to the total expense, but are necessary in the end.
Cleaning the internals of the engine, as suggested, may make the problem worse-get the Compression and Leakdown done first.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
BEFORE you start get a Compression test and Leakdown test done. These should not cost more than $100 and will tell you what cylinders are not in spec. Honda engines DO last for a considerable amount of time and miles with proper care. My CRX has 176K on the Odometer and we think the engine is original. Whatever you decide, make sure to replace the Timing Belt, Water Pump and other accessory belts. THis is very important to do. You may even want to replace all of the hoses if they are original to the car. These things will add to the total expense, but are necessary in the end.
Cleaning the internals of the engine, as suggested, may make the problem worse-get the Compression and Leakdown done first.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
10-19-2004, 09:09 AM
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Yeah I agree totally, get a compression and leakdown test done. Even just a compression test (simple, just a gauge needed) will give you a pretty good idea of the internal condition of you engine. Too bad you live in Colorado. If you lived out here by me (variously NY and DE) I'd say bring it over my house and I'll check it out for you.
When you get the test done ask them for what the numbers were for each cylinder and post them here. Also good to know would be if the readings increased when oil was sprayed into the cylinder. (this is called a wet compression test). If the wet compression numbers are significantly better than the dry numbers it indicates worn piston rings. The oil will temporarily improve the ring seal, giving you higher numbers. If wet and dry are about the same and are low, the valves are teh culprit.
When you get the test done ask them for what the numbers were for each cylinder and post them here. Also good to know would be if the readings increased when oil was sprayed into the cylinder. (this is called a wet compression test). If the wet compression numbers are significantly better than the dry numbers it indicates worn piston rings. The oil will temporarily improve the ring seal, giving you higher numbers. If wet and dry are about the same and are low, the valves are teh culprit.
10-19-2004, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jc836
Time to consider buying the HELM manual (helminc.com) for your car. I agree that the current engine should be fine once the needed work is done. You are describing either rings or stem seals. The seals in the head are not hard to do. The rings will require that the engine either be removed or that the tech simply pull the head and pan and do it that way-if there is enough room under the car. Pulling the cylinder head is going to take time, but is not difficult.
BEFORE you start get a Compression test and Leakdown test done. These should not cost more than $100 and will tell you what cylinders are not in spec. Honda engines DO last for a considerable amount of time and miles with proper care. My CRX has 176K on the Odometer and we think the engine is original. Whatever you decide, make sure to replace the Timing Belt, Water Pump and other accessory belts. THis is very important to do. You may even want to replace all of the hoses if they are original to the car. These things will add to the total expense, but are necessary in the end.
Cleaning the internals of the engine, as suggested, may make the problem worse-get the Compression and Leakdown done first.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
BEFORE you start get a Compression test and Leakdown test done. These should not cost more than $100 and will tell you what cylinders are not in spec. Honda engines DO last for a considerable amount of time and miles with proper care. My CRX has 176K on the Odometer and we think the engine is original. Whatever you decide, make sure to replace the Timing Belt, Water Pump and other accessory belts. THis is very important to do. You may even want to replace all of the hoses if they are original to the car. These things will add to the total expense, but are necessary in the end.
Cleaning the internals of the engine, as suggested, may make the problem worse-get the Compression and Leakdown done first.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
10-19-2004, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by v8guy
Yeah I agree totally, get a compression and leakdown test done. Even just a compression test (simple, just a gauge needed) will give you a pretty good idea of the internal condition of you engine. Too bad you live in Colorado. If you lived out here by me (variously NY and DE) I'd say bring it over my house and I'll check it out for you.
When you get the test done ask them for what the numbers were for each cylinder and post them here. Also good to know would be if the readings increased when oil was sprayed into the cylinder. (this is called a wet compression test). If the wet compression numbers are significantly better than the dry numbers it indicates worn piston rings. The oil will temporarily improve the ring seal, giving you higher numbers. If wet and dry are about the same and are low, the valves are teh culprit.
When you get the test done ask them for what the numbers were for each cylinder and post them here. Also good to know would be if the readings increased when oil was sprayed into the cylinder. (this is called a wet compression test). If the wet compression numbers are significantly better than the dry numbers it indicates worn piston rings. The oil will temporarily improve the ring seal, giving you higher numbers. If wet and dry are about the same and are low, the valves are teh culprit.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try to get the info and post it here and then maybe you can tell me what you think.