Brakes? Something Else?
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 419
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From: Moncton, N.B. Canada
Brakes? Something Else?
Just a quick question...lately (ever since I've had an alignment) my car seems to "shake" a bit when I apply the brakes...mainly in the steering wheel is where I feel it...it is only at high speeds (50mph+) and I am starting to really press on the brake to slow down...ie, gearing down from 5th to 4th and so on.
What could this be?
Can I fix this myself ?
Difficulty level?
Thanks,
Jason
What could this be?
Can I fix this myself ?
Difficulty level?
Thanks,
Jason
I'm RICK JAMES, bitch!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,742
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Md
You probably have warped rotors. Meaning pad material has built up on the rotor surface making it no longer completely level and smooth.
If that doesn't help it I would say than either rotten bushings or a bad alignment is the cause.
If that doesn't help it I would say than either rotten bushings or a bad alignment is the cause.
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 70
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From: Altanta, GA
Here 'ya go...
Yes, the most common cause of steering wheel shake while braking is warped front disc brake rotors. If you jack up the car and pull a wheel, you should be able to turn the rotor and see it wobble with respect to the position of the pad.
One common way rotors get warped is when you take a freeway offramp by putting your foot on the brake at a high speed and leave your foot there all the way to the stoplight. This puts a ton of heat in the rotor and the pad, and since you're holding the pad on the rotor, the rest of the rotor is cooling off much faster. I stop using a few pushes of the pedal and try to come to a stop with my foot off the brakes to minimize the chance I'll have to turn/replace mine.
To "turn" rotors, you have a mechanic use a machine that grinds the rotor down to the lowest point in the "wobble", effectively making it flat again. The problem is you can only do this so many times before the rotor is too thin to still be safe. The mechanic will measure the thickness of the rotor before turning it to determine whether it's still within the spec. One other caveat is once a rotor has warped, it will likely warp again. I've heard it has something to do with a change in the metal, but I don't know for sure.
If you pull the rotor, you can take it to any parts store to have them turn it. Call around, though, as prices can vary from $5 USD to $20. I always do brakes in pairs, so if I turn or replace one rotor, I'll do the other.
Working with brakes is the best starter project IMHO since it usually doesn't require any special tools. It's helpful to have an 8" C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper if you're installing new pads, though. I would highly recommend investing in a Haynes or Chilton shop manual (available at every auto parts store) and jumping in. -scott
Yes, the most common cause of steering wheel shake while braking is warped front disc brake rotors. If you jack up the car and pull a wheel, you should be able to turn the rotor and see it wobble with respect to the position of the pad.
One common way rotors get warped is when you take a freeway offramp by putting your foot on the brake at a high speed and leave your foot there all the way to the stoplight. This puts a ton of heat in the rotor and the pad, and since you're holding the pad on the rotor, the rest of the rotor is cooling off much faster. I stop using a few pushes of the pedal and try to come to a stop with my foot off the brakes to minimize the chance I'll have to turn/replace mine.
To "turn" rotors, you have a mechanic use a machine that grinds the rotor down to the lowest point in the "wobble", effectively making it flat again. The problem is you can only do this so many times before the rotor is too thin to still be safe. The mechanic will measure the thickness of the rotor before turning it to determine whether it's still within the spec. One other caveat is once a rotor has warped, it will likely warp again. I've heard it has something to do with a change in the metal, but I don't know for sure.
If you pull the rotor, you can take it to any parts store to have them turn it. Call around, though, as prices can vary from $5 USD to $20. I always do brakes in pairs, so if I turn or replace one rotor, I'll do the other.
Working with brakes is the best starter project IMHO since it usually doesn't require any special tools. It's helpful to have an 8" C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper if you're installing new pads, though. I would highly recommend investing in a Haynes or Chilton shop manual (available at every auto parts store) and jumping in. -scott