someone tell me if this is good pricing to build a ls/vtec for my crx
Thread Starter
bye ashley, hello leah
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 171
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From: tennessee
someone tell me if this is good pricing to build a ls/vtec for my crx
these are the prices i was quoted... my name is brad dude's name is andrew and he's goin to be doing the labor himself.
if i were to fork all of this cash over, would it be a good deal?...
if i were to fork all of this cash over, would it be a good deal?...
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Tucson AZ
minus the porting the head which is simple and you should do urself with a dremel, it all seems pretty reasonable, expensive setup to begin with but if ur planning on boosting it then i guess your good to go, for that price though you may want to consider other options as well, possibly a whole new b18c5 engine without the ls bottom which can easily be had for that price and you just have to drop it in with new mounts linkage axles and ecu. but ur choice. labor is very reasonable
Rotorphile.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,120
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From: Richmond, VA
A couple things about that list really irk me.
One of the most significant things is the head. First, where are you going to get a B18C5 head for $500? I got $590 for a stripped B18C1 head I sold about a year ago. Second, why are you getting a Type-R head if you are going to replace the guts and port it? You might as well start with a cheap-o B16A head, because you'll end up with the exact same thing.
Below that, the labour charge of $250 to prep it for LS/VTEC. That's bull. All you need to do is tap and plug one hole, ream two holes, and unscrew a plug.
At that, I don't see an LS/VTEC plumbing kit in there. Add on about $120 +shipping.
I fail to see the need for a Toda oil pump.
I've heard bad things about those Total Seal gapless rings, too. I can't remember where or in what context though.
I should also mention that those cams are a bad idea if you plan to boost. Similarly, those pistons are a bad idea if you are staying N/A.
In short, if I was spending that much cash I'd be pissed if I didn't have some nice Crower rods and a Z10 block girdle. It sounds like a solid engine, but not $5k solid. If you want something nice and easy, get a B18C1 and drop in a B18A/B or B20B/Z crank along with some Crower rods for a B18A/B. That will give you the same 1834cc that an LS/VTEC will, plus you have a real VTEC block with oil squirters, the proper factory oiling system, the ability to accept unmodified VTEC heads, and a factory block girdle.
One of the most significant things is the head. First, where are you going to get a B18C5 head for $500? I got $590 for a stripped B18C1 head I sold about a year ago. Second, why are you getting a Type-R head if you are going to replace the guts and port it? You might as well start with a cheap-o B16A head, because you'll end up with the exact same thing.
Below that, the labour charge of $250 to prep it for LS/VTEC. That's bull. All you need to do is tap and plug one hole, ream two holes, and unscrew a plug.
At that, I don't see an LS/VTEC plumbing kit in there. Add on about $120 +shipping.
I fail to see the need for a Toda oil pump.
I've heard bad things about those Total Seal gapless rings, too. I can't remember where or in what context though.
I should also mention that those cams are a bad idea if you plan to boost. Similarly, those pistons are a bad idea if you are staying N/A.
In short, if I was spending that much cash I'd be pissed if I didn't have some nice Crower rods and a Z10 block girdle. It sounds like a solid engine, but not $5k solid. If you want something nice and easy, get a B18C1 and drop in a B18A/B or B20B/Z crank along with some Crower rods for a B18A/B. That will give you the same 1834cc that an LS/VTEC will, plus you have a real VTEC block with oil squirters, the proper factory oiling system, the ability to accept unmodified VTEC heads, and a factory block girdle.
Thread Starter
bye ashley, hello leah
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: tennessee
Originally posted by Kai
A couple things about that list really irk me.
One of the most significant things is the head. First, where are you going to get a B18C5 head for $500? I got $590 for a stripped B18C1 head I sold about a year ago. Second, why are you getting a Type-R head if you are going to replace the guts and port it? You might as well start with a cheap-o B16A head, because you'll end up with the exact same thing.
Below that, the labour charge of $250 to prep it for LS/VTEC. That's bull. All you need to do is tap and plug one hole, ream two holes, and unscrew a plug.
At that, I don't see an LS/VTEC plumbing kit in there. Add on about $120 +shipping.
I fail to see the need for a Toda oil pump.
I've heard bad things about those Total Seal gapless rings, too. I can't remember where or in what context though.
I should also mention that those cams are a bad idea if you plan to boost. Similarly, those pistons are a bad idea if you are staying N/A.
In short, if I was spending that much cash I'd be pissed if I didn't have some nice Crower rods and a Z10 block girdle. It sounds like a solid engine, but not $5k solid. If you want something nice and easy, get a B18C1 and drop in a B18A/B or B20B/Z crank along with some Crower rods for a B18A/B. That will give you the same 1834cc that an LS/VTEC will, plus you have a real VTEC block with oil squirters, the proper factory oiling system, the ability to accept unmodified VTEC heads, and a factory block girdle.
A couple things about that list really irk me.
One of the most significant things is the head. First, where are you going to get a B18C5 head for $500? I got $590 for a stripped B18C1 head I sold about a year ago. Second, why are you getting a Type-R head if you are going to replace the guts and port it? You might as well start with a cheap-o B16A head, because you'll end up with the exact same thing.
Below that, the labour charge of $250 to prep it for LS/VTEC. That's bull. All you need to do is tap and plug one hole, ream two holes, and unscrew a plug.
At that, I don't see an LS/VTEC plumbing kit in there. Add on about $120 +shipping.
I fail to see the need for a Toda oil pump.
I've heard bad things about those Total Seal gapless rings, too. I can't remember where or in what context though.
I should also mention that those cams are a bad idea if you plan to boost. Similarly, those pistons are a bad idea if you are staying N/A.
In short, if I was spending that much cash I'd be pissed if I didn't have some nice Crower rods and a Z10 block girdle. It sounds like a solid engine, but not $5k solid. If you want something nice and easy, get a B18C1 and drop in a B18A/B or B20B/Z crank along with some Crower rods for a B18A/B. That will give you the same 1834cc that an LS/VTEC will, plus you have a real VTEC block with oil squirters, the proper factory oiling system, the ability to accept unmodified VTEC heads, and a factory block girdle.
well, here's what i'm doing... the car is a crx. i'm about to buy a b18 full swap, still have to go check it out to make sure it runs etc. my goals are 12's in the quarter shifting normally, and 200 at the crank(hopefully more), while still being a daily drive(hence the easy shifting). i have the ability to get cheaper parts if i go through comp cams. this was something a guy there typed up for me when i said ls/vtec turboed. now... excluding the cost of the full b18 swap, could i accomplish this with only 4000 minus the cost of the turbo and everything with it?
Rotorphile.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,120
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Accomplish an LS/VTEC conversion that won't randomly take a shit, for $4k? Yeah, I don't see why not.
BTW, you'll never run a 12 second 1/4 mile by granny shifting. If you do, you'll need a lot more then 200 horsepower.
BTW, you'll never run a 12 second 1/4 mile by granny shifting. If you do, you'll need a lot more then 200 horsepower.
Thread Starter
bye ashley, hello leah
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: tennessee
well... will a built b18(ls)(built meaning sleeved as well as aftermarket parts) with a 14-18 psi boost, in a crx(not stripped down) run down the 1/4 mile in 13.0 sec or less? if i know how to launch and shift? or should i expect the ability to boost more safely as well as run quicker than 13.0?
Rotorphile.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,120
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Originally posted by Caster Troy SI
well... will a built b18(ls)(built meaning sleeved as well as aftermarket parts) with a 14-18 psi boost, in a crx(not stripped down) run down the 1/4 mile in 13.0 sec or less?
well... will a built b18(ls)(built meaning sleeved as well as aftermarket parts) with a 14-18 psi boost, in a crx(not stripped down) run down the 1/4 mile in 13.0 sec or less?
