'03 TL-S Aftermarket Subs
#1
'03 TL-S Aftermarket Subs
I have a TL and I have 2 subs in the trunk powered by an Xtant amp. However I keep blowing the amp up every few months. I have heard there are lots of issues installing speakers in with an exisiting Bose system. Has anyone been able to get an aftermarket amp working on a bose system without any problems and if so how did u hook up the system.
#2
Lord Vader Moderator
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If your amps are only powering the subs, then it should work fine. You might have a bad ground or your power supply isn't enough. Either way, your amp should blow a fuse first before blowing. Who installed it for you?
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Honda-Acura.net Vigor/TL/CL Forum Moderator.
Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
#3
Sound Advice/Tweeter did the installation. The problem they said they were having is that there is too much power going into the inputs. They tried a direct signal from the head unit but on a Bose system the head unit does not put out enough of a signal to power an aftermarket amp. So to get the signal high enough to put into my amp they had to run the signal through the existing Bose amps and then into my amp. This is why I am blowing the amp. I am frying the MOSFET according to Xtant because too strong a signal is being applied. Thats why I was wondering if anyone knows or had used a signal gain to get the head units signal up high enough to put into the amp direct rather than going through the Bose amps and then to my amp.
#4
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Well, they are supposed to use a high-level to low-level converter, converter it from line-level to RCA so your amplifier can have a cleaner signal. They should've done that. I've had my amp. in there for over 3 years now with my 2 subs, never even blew a fuse. Sounds like your shop messed up.
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Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
Honda-Acura.net Vigor/TL/CL Forum Moderator.
Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
#5
Thanks for your reply, I have 2 JL 10" in my car and I was wondering, do you connect both right and left channel going to your amp or just go with one since its a mono signal and did you disconnect the 9" Bose speaker to get the signal from or did you leave in the 9" and just splice the wires?
#6
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I disconnected the stock sub and got the signal from there. I then used a high to low level converter to transfer the signal to RCA and plugged it into my amp. It is best to wire you subs in parallel and run your amp in mono if it can handle it. But seeing you have an Xtant amp and JL subs, it shouldn't be a problem.
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Honda-Acura.net Vigor/TL/CL Forum Moderator.
Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
Honda-Acura.net Vigor/TL/CL Forum Moderator.
Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
#7
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The reply Lord Vater had about using an RCA converter is correct----thats how it SHOULD be connected, via an RCA converter...in my 99 Accord, I have two Fosgate 15's powered by a Fosgate Punch 800.2 amp, all running off the Honda stock head unit----my friend installed an RCA converter between the amp and the signal coming off the rear deck 6 x 9's in order to gain what he calls a "cleaner signal" for the amp to see....since stock head units dont have RCA outs. When going stock heads, you should have an RCA converter between the system somewhere. It would probably take care of your problem.
#8
I understand what you are saying and I agree that this would clear up my problem. Where I run into issues however is that coming out of the RCA converter to my amp are a right and left signal. When I connect both of these inputs to my amp, thats when I can guarantee that my amp MOSFET will be fried in under a month. If I only connect one signal line from the RCA converter box then it will run fine indefinately. I also understand that the bass line is run in mono so this is not really a problem to connect only one line to the amp. Eventually though I plan on replacing the factory Bose speakers with Boston Acoustic speakers powered by another XTant amp I have. Regular signals though have a right and left channel. So I am concerned that I will fry that amp as well and it is now out of warranty unfortunately. So clearly I would like to know if this is going to happen. Sound Advice(aka Tweeter Inc.) have been doing stereo installations a long time so I can'y imagine them never having to deal with this problem before and finding a solution. I would like to find one though before I burn an out of warranty amp. Other alternatives though is getting another head unit and nixing the Bose system entirely . Getting rid of the 6 disc in dash is going to be hard though.
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Originally posted by jp2
I understand what you are saying and I agree that this would clear up my problem. Where I run into issues however is that coming out of the RCA converter to my amp are a right and left signal. When I connect both of these inputs to my amp, thats when I can guarantee that my amp MOSFET will be fried in under a month. If I only connect one signal line from the RCA converter box then it will run fine indefinately. I also understand that the bass line is run in mono so this is not really a problem to connect only one line to the amp. Eventually though I plan on replacing the factory Bose speakers with Boston Acoustic speakers powered by another XTant amp I have. Regular signals though have a right and left channel. So I am concerned that I will fry that amp as well and it is now out of warranty unfortunately. So clearly I would like to know if this is going to happen. Sound Advice(aka Tweeter Inc.) have been doing stereo installations a long time so I can'y imagine them never having to deal with this problem before and finding a solution. I would like to find one though before I burn an out of warranty amp. Other alternatives though is getting another head unit and nixing the Bose system entirely . Getting rid of the 6 disc in dash is going to be hard though.
I understand what you are saying and I agree that this would clear up my problem. Where I run into issues however is that coming out of the RCA converter to my amp are a right and left signal. When I connect both of these inputs to my amp, thats when I can guarantee that my amp MOSFET will be fried in under a month. If I only connect one signal line from the RCA converter box then it will run fine indefinately. I also understand that the bass line is run in mono so this is not really a problem to connect only one line to the amp. Eventually though I plan on replacing the factory Bose speakers with Boston Acoustic speakers powered by another XTant amp I have. Regular signals though have a right and left channel. So I am concerned that I will fry that amp as well and it is now out of warranty unfortunately. So clearly I would like to know if this is going to happen. Sound Advice(aka Tweeter Inc.) have been doing stereo installations a long time so I can'y imagine them never having to deal with this problem before and finding a solution. I would like to find one though before I burn an out of warranty amp. Other alternatives though is getting another head unit and nixing the Bose system entirely . Getting rid of the 6 disc in dash is going to be hard though.
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Originally posted by AcuraTL
I disconnected the stock sub and got the signal from there. I then used a high to low level converter to transfer the signal to RCA and plugged it into my amp. It is best to wire you subs in parallel and run your amp in mono if it can handle it. But seeing you have an Xtant amp and JL subs, it shouldn't be a problem.
I disconnected the stock sub and got the signal from there. I then used a high to low level converter to transfer the signal to RCA and plugged it into my amp. It is best to wire you subs in parallel and run your amp in mono if it can handle it. But seeing you have an Xtant amp and JL subs, it shouldn't be a problem.