slim78

My blower motor is dead and I'm wondering if I should go reman or OEM. My mechanic friend says OEM but the damn thing is $300 vs about $80 reman. Any suggestions? Reasons? All help appreciated!!

djjoshuad

I can't speak to your car specifically... but I have replaced probably 20 blower motors in cars for myself, friend, and family. I've always gone reman as long as the squirrel cage has no cracks. I've never had a problem with remanufactured blower motors, and even if you *do* have a problem, you could afford to replace that motor 3 times with reman vs. once with OEM. Sounds like a gamble I'd take

pummma

I have the same dilemna, where did you get the $80 price for the remanufactured motor. I have seen brand new units for @255-350.
Also, do you have a repair manual that looks like it will help with the install, I need to get one but don't know which one is most helpful.

stereo

I would get the new Honda one for the fact I would never want to replace that blower again as the if I remember correctly the 96 TL's blower is in the heater core like the vigor so it's like a 8 hour job! you have to pull the dash off ,discharge the a/c pull the heater box out then take it appart...I replaced 4 blower motors in vigors and will only use OEM be cause I would not want to do that job over again ..

johnathon

Only use Acura TL repair manual for blower repair. You can find them used on e-bay or new from Helm. When you get the motor out flush it with wd-40 while spinning it by hand. Do this for awhile and watch the gunk come out of the blower at the bearings. After awhile clamp the motor to the bench with V-grip C-clamps and hot wire the motor to a charged battery. It will run and gunk will seep out at the bearings. reverse the wires and the motor will reverse-This will aid the cleaning effect of the WD-40. at this point clamp tho motor in a vertical position and again squirt WD-40 [lots of it] in the rubber nipple air intake of the motor and let the motor set for 15 minutes. Run the motor off the battery until fluid seepage is clear. Reverse the vert. position and repeat above. clean the motor up and blow air in the rubber nipple.A bike tire pump is find for this purpose,Please, resist the urge to use your mouth. You will find that the blower motor runs as good as new.CIAO

pummma

It took me about 15 hours to do the job and it sucks, I have a wiring problem where my dash lights will shut off when I turn the headlights on and the side view mirrors or cruise don't work. I ended up with about 10 extra screws. It took me about 2.5 weeks here and there to finish. This job is worth paying someone $1000 if you don't have a good setup, the patience and time. I ended up paying about $85 parts, $150 AC recharge - it has to be drained out and plenty of aches and scrapes.

twinturbo94

I have a 96 2.5tl that I am getting ready to sell and have a question to see if any of you have encountered this problem. I have had the car for about 6 months and ever since I owned it the heater/ac blower is slow to come on. Once it starts, it doesnt ever shut down. The a/c still blows very cold, but to get any air whatsoever I need to be moving and have it on fresh air. Once the fans kick on, I can move it to full auto. Also , any time I turn left the fans kick on full blast. I find this to be an odd problem. Anything like this every happened to any of you?

TexasHonda

It's probably worn brushes. When brush length nears the end of the holder, the spring compression against the armature lessens to the point that good electrical contact is lost. Motor usually becomes intermittent and finally, the brushes will tumble and motor won't run at all.

Cleaning the residual carbon brush material is not likely to improve the blower motor longetivity, since brush length wear is the problem. Unfortunately the brushes are not designed to be replaceable. If you are extremely determined, you might be able to remove and replace them w/ aftermarket brushes. However, this is not likely to be a long term fix due to wear in the blower bearings which is part of reason for brush wear. Given the effort to access the blower, I would go w/ aftermarket or OEM blower. Tough call given the cost differential. Yes, the OEM is a better product. I've had good luck w/ aftermarket, but not perfect. Used seems less attractive unless you can confirm the mileage on the donor car was low.

good luck