Subwoofer Grounding Question
i agree...ground should be no more than eighteen inches long, a solid chassis ground. to start, i drill like an 1/8" pilot hole and use a short fat course threaded bolt, like a license plate would have, i would scuff a nickel sized area down to bare steel around the hole, and i use dielectric grease to make sure that corrosion doesnt build between the chassis and the connector. ive said it before and ill say it again-grounding is crucial to any electrical system in your car. i also agree with matching the pos and neg cable, like your engine, you could have your ride inhaling through a six inch intake tube, but if you keep the inch an a quarter exhaust it wont do a whole lotta good...
Yeah I will let you guys know of the results I have ordered some new stinger RCAs and I have replaced the remote wire and i have re-grounded the amp but I am waiting for my new amp to get in.
Originally Posted by mrbrace
Ok, thicker wire will not do anything and any sound installer and enthusiast will agree, that you don't need to go bigger ground wire than power wire, its pointless and cost more money, that kind of stuff doesn't matter. Anyhow, I am re-doing my system next week so I will let you all know what i find out.
I would have to again disagree with you...you shouldn't have been using 10g anyway, the smallest gauge you should go is at least 8 when grounding subs. But in your case of talking about radioshack you would be right since they do not carry this thick wire. But keep in mind that your car ground is only around 8 gauge so to ground bigger than that would be pointless.
Unless you are running a 2000+ Watt system and then we can talk differently.
Unless you are running a 2000+ Watt system and then we can talk differently.
Originally Posted by oldschoolimport
can you get to a shock/strut bolt? if so, sand some of the chassis paint away, and use a big ring terminal on the ground wire.
don't do that tap a ground or off the paint or it can be the size of the cable that you are running the amp might be over heating because it is trying to pull in more power it you heres a chart20 -30A 10g
30 -40A 8g
40 -60A 4g
60 -90A 2g
90A + 0g anythiong more than that you have to do more work and i don't mean batterys and caps those are only just band-aids i mean altinator about 120A at least
Originally Posted by mrbrace
car ground is only around 8 gauge so to ground bigger than that would be pointless.
Unless you are running a 2000+ Watt system and then we can talk differently.
Unless you are running a 2000+ Watt system and then we can talk differently.
it does matter because if you restrict the eletron flow you can get altinator wine or worse
When you learn how to spell correctly then I will begin to read what you are saying, but it is still pointless no matter what to ground bigger than 8 gauge period I don't care what you say, a bigger ground wire will do nothing to assist you in any way. The math configuration is not there to support your claim. If you were a true electrical engineer you would know this.
A Side note - you were born in 83' so you trying to push your "I am an electrical engineer" is crap to me now that I know this... its sad...sorry
A Side note - you were born in 83' so you trying to push your "I am an electrical engineer" is crap to me now that I know this... its sad...sorry
There are 21 y/o electricial engineers. And, if you put a grounding kit in your car, do you also have to increase the size of all the pos. wires in your car? No, because you are just establishing a better ground. Here's another example: If you pour water into a funnel quickly, it gets backed up, but it eventually all gets out. If you turn the funnel upside down and do the same thing, it doesn't back up. In essence, that is what a bigger ground does. It allows the electrons to flow more freely. That's what nex-genjdmteg was trying to say, but you wouldn't listen to him because he left out a C and an R.


