i just made a bracket for my amps so i had to un plug and then plug back in all the wires on my amps......also some kid said his system was louder so we both pumped up our systems to almost full.......now my subs arent hitting nearly as hard.....did i blow them or did i mis wire something??? they r 2 12" infinity with like a 600W 2 channel amp feeding them

 

are you sure you plugged everything back in right. If the subs hit significantly less then they did before you may have reversed the polarity on the subs.

 

Make sure that the polarity is correct on both sides (+on amp to +on sub). If the polarity is different on the 2 subs (+to+ and -to+), it creates something we call destructive interference where the 2 subs just about cancel each other out.

 

As long as both of the subs are plugged in and working ok (not topping out or farting) u shud b ok, check the frequency range and gain level, u might have knocked them when putting it back in!
However, by reading ur thread i see that ur using the wrong type of amp for ur subs anyway, u shud have a monoblock amp (1 channel digital) and run ur subs in parallel (take the positive and negative from the amp, go to one sub and then directly from that sub to the next) this way you'll also be getting a lower ohms level, which means more power (2ohms in your case) instead of the 4ohms each sub ur running now!! also wot power are each sub (rms) and is your amp 600w total power or rms?? (i'm guessing total!)
so next time you pump it up he wont have a chance!!!
U know da deal u gotta keep it real, otherwise u'll look a fool
and that defo not kool. laters Ste

 

yes ill def take a look at the polarity...thanks guys.....not its not like a farting noise....i heard a blown sub b4 and it doesnt sound like mine, its jus i thought i might have done somethin after i pumped it up almost to max......b16guy, ya i figured out i was using the wrong kinda amp....im plannin on gettin a mono amp soon cuz the 600rms one i got now is a crappy jenson and was only meant to be temp....never got the chance to replace it.....thanks alot guys ima go check the polarity!!!!

 

b16 guy....wat shud my frequency range and gain level be around....600rms 2 channel amp and the link to the subs below...i got 2 of em

http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/...cation.do#tabs

 

Looking at the specs on those speakers, Id say the issue is not enough power to the speakers... They handle 1200 watts RMS max, so minimum they should be able to handle is 800 watts nominal... You only supplying them with a 600 watt max RMS... You need to find a better amp or you will blow those speakers... Most ppl think too much power will blow speakers, but this is not always the case, under powering them can in fact be worse because the speaker will distort when u turn it way up trying to get the extra oomph out of it... Always best to mate the RMS 600watt subs with 600 watt amp, or the closest u come too it... And with the gain u can always turn it down if it distorts from too much power...

 

exempt....well they hit alot harder b4 so im hoping i just reversed the polarity.....the 2 channel 600w amp is bridgeable, so im gonna bridge it and do a setup like b16guy said

 

are they they dvc's or svc's, b/c if you do put them in parrallel at both the coils and than at the amp than your gonna have a 1ohm load. i'm big on the 4ohm for sq. so your options are 4ohms in series at the coils and parrallel at the amp or 1ohm parrallel at both the amp and coils. or 8ohms or 2ohms with the a svc.

but i think your main problem is the jensen amp :eh: its not that realible of a power souce so it could be flaking out on you. i've matched them to a kicker amp in a customers car and it sounded nice. i'm thinking about going with that setup with an polk momo amp.

 

1. Cobbcustomz, wiring subs in reverse polarity in and of itself shouldn't have noticeable effect on their outputs, UNLESS the subs are wired out of phase with each other, which, like KuttinEdge mentioned, leads to cancellation.

2. B16a2VTIguy, here's no "wrong type of amp" for his subs so long as he's powering them correctly. The belief that you "should" have a monoblock is BS.

3. Yankee81116, if that amp is 600W RMS at the right impedence, I see no reason why it's necessary to upgrade it or why it's an impairment to the output. You should give the model number of the amp, so that we can make a better judgement on whether the subs are being powered correctly.

4. Exempt, that sub is not 1200W RMS max - it's 1200W max power. The RMS power handling on that model is 300W. Destroying a speaker from underpowering it is usually a result of overpowering it, not distortion... when you set the gain up too high to compensate for a low output amp, you clip the signal and cause the amp to double its output. The sub is most likely damaged from the insufficient thermal or mechanical handling capability, assuming that the sub cannot handle the doubled output to begin with.

5. Yankee81116, I would not try to bridge that amp if I were you. Your amp in all likelihood is bridged to a stable 4 ohm load. Your subs are SVC 4 ohms. Running them in parallel off a single channel would give you an effective 2 ohm load and could set your amp into protection mode or cause it to overheat.

** Are the subs in a single chamber enclosure without an internal divider? If you're still getting bass (albeit less bass) from your setup and it's in a single chamber, it's possible that you just blew one of your subs. If it's still wired in stereo, use your head unit and change the alignment to full left and full right and see if it plays in both settings. If it does not play in either left or right, then you know that side's the source of the problem. Or you could just have one sub hooked up at a time when testing to make sure they're individually still good.