92 Accord, newbie questions/problems
Hi all, hope you don't mind putting up with a few dumb newbie questions. I already did a search, and got some mixed answers. I figured that by posting an actual thread I might get advice more specific to my problems.
My 92 Accord has been relatively problem-free since I bought it about 2 years ago. However, there are a few minor annoyances I've had with it. I didn't really bother fixing them while I was at school, but now that I've graduated and have a job, maybe I can afford to fix a few things.
First problem, this is fairly new, my left-side headlight went out. Is it pretty easy to replace? I would imagine that its pretty straightforward. I can probably just go to AutoZone and do the change in the parking lot I guess... right?
Second problem, this has been since I bought the car. The passenger's side lock can't be controlled by the power locking mechanism. I always have to lock/unlock it manually. Not the biggest problem, but a nuisance for sure. Would a repair shop charge much, since I figure it might involve getting into the wiring and all to figure it out?
Third, I've got some rust on the fenders in front of both rear wheels. If I went to a paint shop, I assume they'd charge some huge amount, so its probably not worth it for this, though its definitely unsightly.
Fourth, an even more unsightly problem is the bumpers, front and rear, which have both been scuffed since I bought them, I have no idea why. The car is white, and the scuff marks are all black, so it looks pretty bad. My only guess is that the girl who owned it before me was a horrible parallel-parker or something. Again, not sure if its worth having them painted.
I'd like to hold on to this car for as long as I can, and I'd like for it to look as nice as I can get it. Anyways, thanks for any help you guys can provide.
(Also if anyone here is registered on vwvortex, I'm on there with the same name as well.)
Thanks
My 92 Accord has been relatively problem-free since I bought it about 2 years ago. However, there are a few minor annoyances I've had with it. I didn't really bother fixing them while I was at school, but now that I've graduated and have a job, maybe I can afford to fix a few things.
First problem, this is fairly new, my left-side headlight went out. Is it pretty easy to replace? I would imagine that its pretty straightforward. I can probably just go to AutoZone and do the change in the parking lot I guess... right?
Second problem, this has been since I bought the car. The passenger's side lock can't be controlled by the power locking mechanism. I always have to lock/unlock it manually. Not the biggest problem, but a nuisance for sure. Would a repair shop charge much, since I figure it might involve getting into the wiring and all to figure it out?
Third, I've got some rust on the fenders in front of both rear wheels. If I went to a paint shop, I assume they'd charge some huge amount, so its probably not worth it for this, though its definitely unsightly.
Fourth, an even more unsightly problem is the bumpers, front and rear, which have both been scuffed since I bought them, I have no idea why. The car is white, and the scuff marks are all black, so it looks pretty bad. My only guess is that the girl who owned it before me was a horrible parallel-parker or something. Again, not sure if its worth having them painted.
I'd like to hold on to this car for as long as I can, and I'd like for it to look as nice as I can get it. Anyways, thanks for any help you guys can provide.
(Also if anyone here is registered on vwvortex, I'm on there with the same name as well.)
Thanks
I have a 92 as well, the headlight should be no problem at all. As long as it is the driver's side. To change my passenger side headlight bulb I had to remove the battery and coolant resevior. As far as the power locks, my motor died and it was always unlocked so that cost me about $180. As long as yours locks and unlocks I wouldn't worry about it. I've also got a little cancer under my left rear wheelwell. Its best to sand it down as soon as possible and replace the rubber stripping on the wheelwell. Moisture gets trapped in there.
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The headlights can be changed without moving anything....well, you'll have to move the winshield washer fluid thing out of the way, but the battery you shouldn't have to move...unless you're going for the high beams. As for the rust.....heh, all 4th gens have that it seems....as to cost to get it removed, I havn't the slightest, my brother did a quick job on mine a year ago, but it came back..... (he told me he didn't cut out enough metal for it to have any permenant effect - he was right). Anyhow, the bumpers can easily be painted cheaply at a collision repair center...$100 for each probably.
Get out the phone book, most places will give you an accurate estimate for that kind of stuff! GOOD LUCK AND WELCOME!
- Nathan
Get out the phone book, most places will give you an accurate estimate for that kind of stuff! GOOD LUCK AND WELCOME!
- Nathan
you can change your lightbulbs without moving your battery, you might need little hands though! As for the door locks, it could be the actuator. As for the rust, that could cost a shitload so you should do all the prep work yourself then get a touchup. It wont look great but it's better than rust.
headlight bulbs...u need really small hands to change em if u don't wanna move anything...otherwise...passenger side just take out the battery...driver side should be fine...a lil tight...but still ok...if u live in a place with any sort of rain/moisture, ur gonna get rust on the rear 1/4...it happens...but normally in back of the wheels, not in front...u don't wanna just paint it...u wanna cut it out...put in piece of metal...fill...sand...then paint...lotta work...but if u don't get it done...it's just gonna get worse and worse...and my spot grew almost to the size of a fist and i just got it taken care of with my paint job...good luck
Alright, turns out it actually was my passenger-side headlight. Took out the battery and coolant reservoir and changed the bulb. No sweat, probably about a 45 minute job (thanks Haynes manual).
I'm still thinking about what to do about the rust and bumpers. I might go to a few places this weekend and try to get some quotes or something. I just had some repairs done last month (brakes, exhaust, CV boot), so I'm kinda reluctant to spend big money again. I'll see though.
Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
Also, is there a spring on the fuel door? If so, I think it might be broken, because when I try to open it, the door unlatches, but it doesn't spring open. I rememdy this by having one person pull the release handle next to the driver's seat, and having one person use a knife to pry the door open while it is being released. Its not convenient, but it gets the job done. I'll have to look into what the problem is there.
I'm still thinking about what to do about the rust and bumpers. I might go to a few places this weekend and try to get some quotes or something. I just had some repairs done last month (brakes, exhaust, CV boot), so I'm kinda reluctant to spend big money again. I'll see though.
Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
Also, is there a spring on the fuel door? If so, I think it might be broken, because when I try to open it, the door unlatches, but it doesn't spring open. I rememdy this by having one person pull the release handle next to the driver's seat, and having one person use a knife to pry the door open while it is being released. Its not convenient, but it gets the job done. I'll have to look into what the problem is there.
Originally posted by Foxxern
[Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
[Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
Also, is there a spring on the fuel door? If so, I think it might be broken, because when I try to open it, the door unlatches, but it doesn't spring open. I rememdy this by having one person pull the release handle next to the driver's seat, and having one person use a knife to pry the door open while it is being released. Its not convenient, but it gets the job done. I'll have to look into what the problem is there.
As for me, I have to take out the battery to switch out my passenger side light, and the drivers side I have to pull away the cruise control thingy. Honda must have made their cars for people under 5'3"; being well over 6' I have problems getting into small spaces. Besides, it's good to have some extra room to work with.
Originally posted by Hondapower10a
my old 90 EX coupe had the problem with the window coming out of track. I never fixed it. I just learned to deal with it instead of tearing the whole damn door apart to replace a $4 part.
my old 90 EX coupe had the problem with the window coming out of track. I never fixed it. I just learned to deal with it instead of tearing the whole damn door apart to replace a $4 part.
There shold be a little shiny silver clip at the hinge of the fuel filler door that acts as a spring. The clip you have may have fallen out, or your hinge is stiff so that it doesn't want to open like it should. Go to your local salvage yard and pocket a clip (i'm not condoning stealing) for your car.
Originally posted by Foxxern
Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
Also, is there a spring on the fuel door? If so, I think it might be broken, because when I try to open it, the door unlatches, but it doesn't spring open. I rememdy this by having one person pull the release handle next to the driver's seat, and having one person use a knife to pry the door open while it is being released. Its not convenient, but it gets the job done. I'll have to look into what the problem is there.
Couple of other weird things I forgot about. The driver-side window, when I roll it up, seems to go off-track. That is, it doesn't stay in the rubber molding along the side of the window. It goes off, and so when it goes all the way up there is open space between the door and the window. Kinda hard to explain without seeing it. I can prevent this by holding the window and pushing it in towards the driver when I roll it up though, so its not a huge thing.
Also, is there a spring on the fuel door? If so, I think it might be broken, because when I try to open it, the door unlatches, but it doesn't spring open. I rememdy this by having one person pull the release handle next to the driver's seat, and having one person use a knife to pry the door open while it is being released. Its not convenient, but it gets the job done. I'll have to look into what the problem is there.
The window thing...mine does it too...you just learn how to hold the window just right. More work than it's worth to fix it
Mine does the fuel door thing too. My fix for the fuel door: unlatch it from inside then take your ignition key and use it to pop the door open. Works every time!! I don't find that you need to stay in the car and hold the release, just pull it then get out and pop the door open.
Originally posted by 91Accord
The window thing...mine does it too...you just learn how to hold the window just right. More work than it's worth to fix it
Mine does the fuel door thing too. My fix for the fuel door: unlatch it from inside then take your ignition key and use it to pop the door open. Works every time!! I don't find that you need to stay in the car and hold the release, just pull it then get out and pop the door open.
The window thing...mine does it too...you just learn how to hold the window just right. More work than it's worth to fix it
Mine does the fuel door thing too. My fix for the fuel door: unlatch it from inside then take your ignition key and use it to pop the door open. Works every time!! I don't find that you need to stay in the car and hold the release, just pull it then get out and pop the door open.
I'll try doing the fuel door your way too. That would make it much easier.


