I think that using a Mugen gasket will raise compression than lower it. Mugen doesn't make any turbo products so the gaskets would probably raise the compression than lower it. So get a different brand, I'd say. Though I don't know what to get. Ask Drag, maybe? And also, you can lower compression by retarding the timing, no? And an ignition controller or ECU piggyback like Hondata or AEM EMS can retard timing, no?

 

well, fmax kit comes with DP which already has wastegate dumptube connected to...basically, wastegate and DP are connected and it's already in closed-loop...only sucky thing about fmax is that they place the dumptube so close to turbine (it should be placed about 18" after the turbine) so fmax dp will make you lose lotz of power...
so, to answer your question, yes fmax kit will allow you to be environmentally friendly while making you lose power...that's why i'm going to take the dp and turbo apart and connect the dp/dumptube together at a exhaust shop...

i needed the obd1 resistor box since dsm injectors are not compatible with obd2 honda cars...i think honda uses peak-hold injectors, not saturated (i may have these 2 reversed )...basically, honda injectors are low imperdance while dsms are high impedance...and honda's obd1 cars used to use high impedance injectors with resistor box which made it low impedance...
if you buy yourself a set of new injectors from RC, you can bypass the resistor box and cutting into injector wires/clips...i only did it to save $$

vafc hack is used with dsm 450cc or equivalent size injectors...
basically, you use bigger injector, but cut down the fuel to -40% ~ -50% depending on your requirements...
what it does is this: since you're cutting more fuel from bigger injector, you're able to achieve same level of fuel entering the engine while using a bigger injector...
also, while in boost, you cut less fuel away, meaning you're getting all the fuel you need...it works, it's cheap (combined with dsm injectors), and it drives...and for those who doesn't have hondata, it's basically only way to go (unless you use smc or similar device which can be used to cut down the fuel trim)...

will...fmax gives you 2 bigger injectors...which means you'll have 2 stock and 2 big injectors...also, 2 big injectors are programmed for your application, which means plug and play...how much hp will they support? definitely less than 4 big inejctors...
fmax is trying to cut cost here...the best setup would be 4 big injectors and standalone* such as hondata/aem ems...
but fmax's setup does work from what i heard...so the choice is up to you...
or, if you're hardcore eenough, you can drill 2 holes in the intake manifold and have 4 stocks + 2 big injectors...in that setup, you would have to change the fuel settings (i'm not sure if mf2 will let you change the settings, prolly not)...if you decide not to use mf2, you can buy hks fcon or similar fuel injector control device...but i think it just adds to confusion...
keep things simple...either go fmu + inline fuel pump + hondata, or big injectors + hondata or afc hack + intank pump...you can also use fmu with afc if you want...it all depends on how it's tuned...

you add a boost controller...
simple way is to get a ball/spring type, which will connect between compressor housing and wastegate (between the vacuum line)...with this, unless certain amount of boost is reached, the spring doesn't retract and let the air pass to wastegate...when the spring's retracted, air passes thru the vacuum line and then wastegate opens up...and that's how you control the boost...with additional electronic or manual boost controller...

i didn't add it...still running off of stock intank honda pump since i can't find a walbro intank for my car...ppl usually go with intank pump for afc hack...

why? cuz 440cc RC injectors cost like 80 per injector...i could get 4 - 450cc's for about 50 bucks from dsm owners...and they do perform just about same...i saw no need to waste 200 bucks...

drag doesn't give you 2 injectors...they give you inline pump and fmu...as for fmax setup, i think it will work, but it's a crippled setup imo...fuel and timing is crucial to having a reliable turbo setup...skimp on fuel and you'll end up with detonation...
so my choice was to go bigger injectors and control it with afc until i find some way to get hondata on my car...

aem ems is a very feasible option for me...if you think about it, hondata will cost just about same (with extra ecu and other features)...aem ems will require shizload of dyno time because from what i understand, it's basemaps aren't that good (could have changed in new versions)...also, one possibility is autotune with aem ems + wide band adaptor...this could be a lifesaver since you would end up with decent basemap which only requires fine tuning...but unless i see it with my own eyes, i won't waste my time+$$ on feature that's *supposed* to work...
that's why i had to go with afc hack...cuz hondata don't support my car, and aem ems costs bucketload of $$ to get it tuned...

holy cow this was a long assss post!!!
i guess that's what i get for visiting the board once a week

 

Wow you really did your homework! I didn't understand a whole lot of what you talked about but it's impressive. Good job. :-)

 

hahaha, i try man~

if you want some really good turbo info for hondas....try honda-tech's search feature...make sure you search in archive though...

good luck!

 

hey ashzero:

Just curious as to how your turbo is doing? Its been over a month now....got any updates? Have you dynoed the car? how is your fuel consumption? how often to you have to change oil? (more often that usual?)

Im just wondering on the status..because im interested to know how its doing..

thanks!

 

ash, thanks for the big post answering my questions.

I guess I will be accumulating parts this fall so I may have more questions in the future.

Thanks again a ton.

I too was also wondering how it has been running since you got it fixed?

Also, did you have to get a MAP bypass switch or bleeder?

Any problems idleing? Guess on HP?

thanks again.

 

my turbo's still going strong...
i up the boost to 9psi like a month ago and it's been real fun...went to the dyno few days ago and only bad thing is that they could not tune afc in high vtec map, meaning that changes in afc did not register in engine since a/f ratio was erratic and could not be adjusted...i'll have 2x check the wiring of afc and reset the ecu...maybe that'll help...
fuel consumption's very similar to way it was before...i do 1/2 highway 1/2 city driving and i get 350miles consistantly per fillup...
i haven't changed the oil since, but i really should...just for safety reasons...i think 2500-3000 interval is good...i used to do it every 4000-5000 before the turbo (i use mobile-1 exclusively)...
good news is that in LVT (low vtec map), which is basically from 0rpm - 5000rpm, i made 210some lbs of torque at ~2800rpm...
hp was still climbing up, but couldnt be completed since HVT map couldn't be tuned...
goddamn i hate auto*****ty in northern va...has good reputation, but their tuner really had no idea what was going on with my car...and i still got charged full rate....what a SOBs....

i don't use bleeder/missing link...
and car pulls very very nicely from 2500 to redline...9psi compared to 5psi is like...heaven and earth! but of course, i do exercise caution in driving my car...as always, sensible driving is the key!

 

Wow...sounds like your having alot of fun!!

How I wish I could afford a turbo...but its expensive, ill start saving up..and hopefully I can get one in the future.

Keep up the good work dude....and keep us posted on the numbers!!!

 

ash, sounds sweet.

Got a few more ?'s to throw at ya if you don't mind.

1) Are you using an MSD timing retard device or did you add a thicker head gasket to reduce compression? In other words, what are you doing to combat detonation?

2) Have you or are you going to switch to colder spark plugs?

3) How did you up your boost? I didn't see a boost controller in your parts list.

4) Have you had any overheating problems now that the intercooler is blocking your radiator?

5) Did you get your wastegate welded in to your downpipe yet?


Thanks as aways,
Brian

 

intercoolers are pretty much straight through, so the air goes right through the intercooler. it does have some restriction to the radiator but its not going to make the car overheat