Depends on the class you want to run in. In H Stock, upgraded pads (EBC Green, Hawk Blue, Porterfield R4S) and a complete flush of the brake fluid and upgrading to a better brake fluid (Red Line, Wilwood, Valvoline Synthetic) is all that is really allowed. Of course, inspection of all brake hoses, calipers, etc is in order. In F Street Prepared, you can use the 11" Accord Wagon/V6 Accord front brake setup, requiring changing rotors, calipers (and mounts,) and pads. Using the two piston Legend caliper on an Accord is illeagal in Street Prepared, and pad selection is much more limited as well. In Street Prepared, however, you can use whatever master cylinder you want, so if you come across a heavier duty one that fits, let me know, as I am looking to upgrade my master cylinder currently. Stainless hoses are an effective upgrade. If your car is primarily a driver car, I'd skip the cross-drilled rotors, and use stock units. If you are looking into Street Modified, or Prepared catagories, then your options open up a lot, but the cost goes up at a much higher rate than the performance increase. The 11" brake upgrade is also good as you can use 15" wheels to race on and still have plenty of clearance, most other brake upgrades require at least 16" and oftentimes 17" wheels.

 

I was gonna get the slotted or drilled but people kept saying that there is no real difference and you have to be hardcore racer to feel any of the good effects they may have. It's a great setup, I love the difference and it feels complete now that I have new tires as of 1 hour ago. The only thing I wanna do is get the brakes bled again because the pedal feel is not what I want it to be, a little slushy-like, but it still stops on a dime if I need it to!

 

hey I remember your slogan in your sig was "if you can't afford it, make it!" So just make yourself some nice new brakes?

Really though, like GreenLX said...it depends on what class you plan on running in.

 

Well you could use the Wagon rotors for improved disc size (not sure how much more though) and swap on the NSX calipers as has been discussed many times.

Doing this all the way around the car would definitley improve the overall braking of the car but you also have to remember the general rule is that 60% or so of the braking is done in the front end.

 

>What are Brembo Blanks?
>Legend Calipers -what year?-
>are both front and back wagon/v6 rotors 11" ?

well, i've only really autoXed once but i'd like to get into it...so so far i've only been on NOV. but don't really know anything about classes yet (i wanna race, but not up againsed porshes and such)


so my best (and cheapest) bet is to get:
*Legend Calipers & Upgrade Pads
*wagon/v6 rotors from junkyard (OR) *Brembo Blanks
*Stainless Steel Braided Brake lines
*Upgrade Brake fuild

 

http://www.scca.org/

They shoud have the information on classification and acceptale mods here if not you can send for their free rules and regs guide

 

 

The NOV distinction is for Novice, but that is in addition to the actual classification of the car. The cars running with the NOV group compete against each other using the PAX system so, a newbie in a Camaro and another in a Civic can compete against one another. Beware of modifications that put you above and beyond how competitive your car can be, that is, if your goal is to be competitive. If your goals for autocross are to test your car out in a controlled area, and build the car the way you want it, then by all means, don't let classifications come into play. I can tell you from experience, that it is more fun to have a car that's competitive for the class and take home trophies from time to time.

 

is this what i should get?

 

It depends on what your goals for the car are. Then you need to compare those goals with what the rules stipulate. For example, I have a 1992 Accord EX with an Eibach Pro-kit, KYB AGXs, a S/T rear sway bar, upgraded bushings on my 25 mm front bar, wagon front brakes, EBC Green brake pads, under bumper ram-air induction, upgraded stock-type ignition parts, 16" wheels (with "H" centercaps a la JDM wheels,) some mild cosmetics, and a forthcoming cat-back system. Theses mods deliver improved performance and looks, the car is totally streetable, and the car is suited for Street Prepared competition. Granted, there are a lot of things I could do do improve the performance on course, but as I have learned over the years of doing this, either drive a car that kicks ass in stock trim, or have another car that responds well to modifcations, needing only a few to do well. Accords are always going to be limited in their ability to perform because of some inherent issues. How much money, and to what lengths you are willing to go to to make the car perform at a competitive level is totally up to you. But I can assure you, even with a $2,000 brake system upgrade, stock class M3's will spank you. If I were you, I'd do the wagon brakes with good autocross pads, build the car to compete in F Street Prepared, and get seat time, and go to a few training schools, learn good habits from the beginning, and you'll beat people who spent a lot more on their cars than you.