sweet bro, thanks for the good info:thumbup: Few questions, so the single tube that goes from the CAI to the valve cover, that's the one I should use? Im also gonna use the NGK V-groove platinum plugs, but im gonna get either accel or magnecor wires, most likely magnecor cause they come in red(even though they are like $40 more than the accel), I want to do distributor cap and rotor but I have never messed with them before and I heard that you'd have to set your timing cause replacing these parts would affect it. Is that true? If not, is replacing these parts a simple remove old one, install new one kind of deal, as in, self explanatory? I need to get a new cone filter for my CAI, it was pretty grungy when I got it(used), fuel filter i'd like to do as well, but pcv valve, you said it can kill your gas mileage. How is that? When I got my timing belt done, they found leakage around my balancer shaft seal so they replaced it, put a retainer on it, and replaced some other seals as well as the pcv valve. What 3 stage engine treatment did you use? sounds like good stuff.

 

teamlegacy, can you hook me up w/the answers to the above questions? :thumbup:

 

K, where is the PCV valve and where is the CAI.

 

I run with Bosch Platinum 4s and Taylor Spark Plug Wires, they run just fine and I get close to 300 city on good weeks. Bad weeks...more like 250 or less...street racing...

 

the pcv valve on my engine f22 non vtec is on top of the valve cover towards the back about in the middle(from left to right). Do you even know what a CAI is? If so, im sure you'd know where it's at.


I been getting 300 on the regular too, I wish it was closer to 400 but I'll take what I can get.

 

No i don't know what a CAI is. can u tell me. Thanx

 

CAI=Cold Air Intake

 

C'on, well now get it. i do have one. Thanx

 

On my car, I hit a 100,000 miles last month, The mechanic told me to replace the oxygen sensor and I did. He said the sensor gets lazy and messes up the idle and efficiency.. so you may want to try that. My car runs pretty smooth but it cost me $250 for the new sensor.

 

Everyone is right here. VRGNCD5, you can change your distributor cap and rotor no sweat. i do it every other oil change. the only bad part is that the screw that holds the rotor to the distributor sometimes gets so hot that it literally welds itself to the distributor and you have to get it drilled out (hence the changing every other oil change). the cap only goes on one way, so you don't have to worry about that. and the rotor only goes on one way too, so you don't have to worry about that. changing your pcv is a good idea too. i hear after about 40K, they're dead anyways. and the O2 sensors are only good for about 60K-80K before you need a new one. but whatever you do, use the seafoam stuff FIRST so you don't gunk up all your new parts. as for the wires, i just bought some magnecors, and you'll love them. i got the 10mm, but it's the same except for some more EFI coating. you'll like them, and you shouldn't have to replace them for quite a long time! other than that, i think teamlegacy outlined it pretty good for you. let us know how much everything helps.

(for that misfire, check your cap and rotor when you pull them off, and make sure you put your wires back on in the right order in that funky honda criss cross pattern.)