I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX


odometer has 174k, but the engine I put in it recently has about 50k. It is the 2.2L VTEC engine from a 2000 Accord. I used the 1994 wiring harness, and had no issues with running for one day before this happened.


It has problems revving and wont drive. If I throttle it all the way to the floor, it sounds like its muffled, and the rpm's drop to about 3-400. Then when I let off the gas, it peps up to about 1,000 then down to about 750 like normal idle.

When I step on the gas, it wont go. Then I let off the gas, and then it peps up then idles back down. It is like it is delayed.

I have loosened the throttle cable, cruise cable, and downshift tranny cable, all make no difference.


There are no check engine codes.

I have new fuel filter, fuel pump, plug, wires, cap, etc....

I am thinking it may be that I need to take the EGR plate of and clean it. I did not cut or crimp any wires and have no wiring issues.

I also think I might have a bad TPS.

It idles fine and revs up when using using my hand on the throttle under the hood, and has no problems half of the time, but other times it just spits and sputters!

What are you guys suggestions? I need to get this thing running and back on the road ASAP!

 

Cleaning the EGR valve wouldn't hurt anything. Get a Chilton's(or a Hayne's if you'd rather) and test the TPS(don't remember if there is a reference to that or not-if so, could possibly be CPS or CKS in conjunction with TPS). Start with the TPS though.

 

If it was the crank or cam sensor, wouldnt there be an engine code? There are no codes showing up when checking them!!!!! That is what is stumping me!

 

I would think that-BUT stranger stuff has happened. In theory there would be a code. Seemingly stoopid question-does the CEL light up then go out when you start the car?

 

I think it lights up then goes off... I will have to see tomorrow and give an update.

 

Yea, light comes on at startup, then goes off immediately. I have a new TPS on order for 49 bucks.

 

take out battery negative to reset the ecu/pcm.


if the driveability problem goes away until the next day, i suggest you get a ecu/pcm that belongs to that year of motor.

 

I am quite sure that it is the TPS sensor, as everything else checks out.

 

o ok. im glad you got it sorted out.

 

Don't forget this step!!