This question might have been asked a Number of times, but I've had brand new 1yr old set of calpiers fry a set of new cermainic pads and new rotors. Whats going on and my brake houses have been replaced.

 

Define "fry."

 

Specify the type of rotor please(slotted, cross drilled, or both). Does the car have ABS? Did someone do a performance upgrade somewhere in the system? These seem like simple questions, but they help diagnosis via forum. Sounds to me like your glazing(this is an industry term) the rotor and/or pads. Scour the rotor with a da pad(lit 120 grit, just buff it a bit), don't go ape shit with it though. This will help the pad seat into the rotor.

 

overheated maybe.

anyways, if the front rotors are bluish, that either means you(driver) mostlikely does hard braking frequently. slight braking is important specially during the brake-in period of your brakes.

the other thing is, if you have a rear drum brakes, the front rotors overheats because the rear shoes are not adjusted properly or they maybe out of spec and not working at all meaning the front brakes are doing most of the stopping job.

 

Drums, on at least any 4th gen and later, are self adjusting. Rear brakes also do so little braking compared to the front that I wouldn't consider them at fault for failing front brakes (sure, the fronts will fade sooner, but I wouldn't expect them to fade during any normal daily driving). Brake break-in (bedding) should be done with 6-10 consecutive/repetitive hard slow downs from 40-60mph down to 10mph, getting the rotors and pads nice and hot and then letting them cool by driving around for ~10 minutes without coming to any complete stops, not by babying them. Slow/soft braking will not bed the pads in properly and you'll end up with glazed rotors and very poor braking performance. I explained this in more detail in another somewhat recent brake thread and you can research the issue online and/or talk to a performance pad manufacture if you don't want to take my word for it.

 

rear brake shoes/drum eventhough self adjusting can only adjust so much.

but if your drums are out of spec, sure you can throw in a new shoes in and the rear brakes will work but at some point in time, your shoes and out of spec drums will not meet anymore and then the front brakes will do most of the work.
i fully understand the percentage of work between the front and rear brakes as i am ASE certified on this area. I work on brakes very often as well.

about calling the brake pads makers, sorry i dont go that crazy to do a research just on brake pads.

 

I was referring to the procedure of properly bedding in new pads and/or rotors, not product research. I'm not sure ASE certs teaches you that, though. There are a lot of practices that are antiquated/old wives tales regarding break in procedures...like slowly breaking in new pads/rotors or slowly breaking in a new or rebuilt motor.

 

so, well anyways, whats the update on this vehicle?

 

I do run my brakes hard. I have 1 yr old calipers and satified brake pads and stock rotors. I do bleed my brakes, both front and back. I've also flushed my system. I was thinking about going with loaded autozone calipers and some crossdrilled rotors. When I say fry I'm talking about one side wearing more than the other.

 

Could you be a little less vague? One side of the car? One side of the pads (inner vs outer)? Worn pads? Worn rotors? Why are you replacing calipers? Calipers typically last the life of the car unless they're significantly old and the cylinder walls/piston have pitted/grooved from rust/debris or the slider pins are worn from years of use (of course rubber seals/boots may need replacing more frequently). I would rather have an OEM caliper with OEM rubber than a 3rd party rebuilt unit with low quality rubber assembled by a minimum wage worker. Cross drilled rotors are a gimmick with todays pads. How many miles are you putting on a set of pads/rotors?