Question abour Honda/Acura warranty, rustproofing and various rustproofing produ
03-17-2009, 04:30 AM
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Question abour Honda/Acura warranty, rustproofing and various rustproofing produ
Hi there all
I live in the rust belt of Ontario where snow and calcium is
everpresent between the months of December and March!
I have a brand new 2004 RSX. My dealer just told me that applying
rust
proofing treatment that uses "heavy oils" , especially Krown and
Rust Check, will cancel the Acura rust warranty (his quotes).
As anyone been told this? I have his email mentioning this...
When pressed, he specifically mentioned to avoid Krown and Rust
Check, as these products will "warp gaskets and seals". I did not
find any reference to this on Krown or Rust-Check's site. The
only rustproofing product he suggested was Ziebart. This is a
one-time application and provides a 10 year perforation warranty.
I have no doubt about him truly believing that my warranty would
be void should I use either this product. (He could be incorrect
yet believe what he says). Is he correct?
As anyone here who has an Acura were told about this? What
surprises
me is that I have been told only at my first oil change and not
before. Also,
I did not find any reference to this inthe owner's manual. I did
a search on rust proofing and no where did I find any reference
to Acura not honouring their warranty: I did read about people
stating this, but no solid evidence. I know they drill holes, or
the goo can block evacuation holes, but beside this, no solid
evidence.
I also would like to check this with Honda or Acura, but cannot
find their email in Canada. Anyone has it?
I do have a few more questions.. Assuming rust proofing is ok,
what
is the difference between "undercoating" and "rust proofing"? Do
undercoating with oil do a good job (Oil Guard)? Do they do the
wheel wells as well when they do only undercoating? Also, what
product do they use?
What do you guys suggest for rust proofing? I plan to keep the
car extra clean and for a long time; so do I need the full rust
proofing or just the undercoating? My other 91 Integra only
started to develop rust after 8 or 9 year, but I was not keeping
it as clean as I plan to with this one...
Thanks in advance.
I live in the rust belt of Ontario where snow and calcium is
everpresent between the months of December and March!
I have a brand new 2004 RSX. My dealer just told me that applying
rust
proofing treatment that uses "heavy oils" , especially Krown and
Rust Check, will cancel the Acura rust warranty (his quotes).
As anyone been told this? I have his email mentioning this...
When pressed, he specifically mentioned to avoid Krown and Rust
Check, as these products will "warp gaskets and seals". I did not
find any reference to this on Krown or Rust-Check's site. The
only rustproofing product he suggested was Ziebart. This is a
one-time application and provides a 10 year perforation warranty.
I have no doubt about him truly believing that my warranty would
be void should I use either this product. (He could be incorrect
yet believe what he says). Is he correct?
As anyone here who has an Acura were told about this? What
surprises
me is that I have been told only at my first oil change and not
before. Also,
I did not find any reference to this inthe owner's manual. I did
a search on rust proofing and no where did I find any reference
to Acura not honouring their warranty: I did read about people
stating this, but no solid evidence. I know they drill holes, or
the goo can block evacuation holes, but beside this, no solid
evidence.
I also would like to check this with Honda or Acura, but cannot
find their email in Canada. Anyone has it?
I do have a few more questions.. Assuming rust proofing is ok,
what
is the difference between "undercoating" and "rust proofing"? Do
undercoating with oil do a good job (Oil Guard)? Do they do the
wheel wells as well when they do only undercoating? Also, what
product do they use?
What do you guys suggest for rust proofing? I plan to keep the
car extra clean and for a long time; so do I need the full rust
proofing or just the undercoating? My other 91 Integra only
started to develop rust after 8 or 9 year, but I was not keeping
it as clean as I plan to with this one...
Thanks in advance.
03-30-2009, 03:02 AM
#2
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>what
>is the difference between "undercoating" and "rust proofing"?
Undercoat attempts to prevent brine that is being splashed up by the
wheels from getting at the underside of the car. Some undercoats are a
tar-like thick layer which stays somewhat flexible at summer
temperatures but is quite brittle when cold
Other undrcoats use a very thick grease-like oil
>Do undercoating with oil do a good job (Oil Guard)?
Products like Oil Guard take a different approach. They use a really
thin oil, it's rather like hydraulic fluid. They drill holes in your
doorsills a squirt it in from above. Their target is an area the
undercoat can't protect, the spot-welded seams where the unit body is
held together. Those areas are very vulnerable to rust because the
layers of metal are so close together there is capillary action to
draw brine up into them, and the spot welding makes the metal
susceptible to rusting. The skinny oils are meant to protect those
seams, but to be really effective they need to be reapplied annually.
>Do they do the
>wheel wells as well when they do only undercoating? Also, what
>product do they use?
Who's they?
>What do you guys suggest for rust proofing? I plan to keep the
>car extra clean and for a long time; so do I need the full rust
>proofing or just the undercoating?
I would say both.
>My other 91 Integra only
>started to develop rust after 8 or 9 year, but I was not keeping
>it as clean as I plan to with this one...
Then plan on pulling up the carpets every spring and getting the salt
that has fallen off your winter boots out of them. That's a main cause
of rusted out floorboards. Also be aware that a lot of rusing can be
going on underneath plastic trim panels. Get a magnet and check to see
how much of what looks like metal isn't!
In winter avoid parking in heated underground garages. Rust doesn't
happen when the car is cold, it happens when temperatures are near
freezing and brine slush is liquid and mobile.
If you really seriously want to stop rust cold, use this stuff
www.por15.com
It's expensive, it's a pain in the ass to apply and you'll have to put
it on yourself before undercoat is applied, but man does it work!
>is the difference between "undercoating" and "rust proofing"?
Undercoat attempts to prevent brine that is being splashed up by the
wheels from getting at the underside of the car. Some undercoats are a
tar-like thick layer which stays somewhat flexible at summer
temperatures but is quite brittle when cold
Other undrcoats use a very thick grease-like oil
>Do undercoating with oil do a good job (Oil Guard)?
Products like Oil Guard take a different approach. They use a really
thin oil, it's rather like hydraulic fluid. They drill holes in your
doorsills a squirt it in from above. Their target is an area the
undercoat can't protect, the spot-welded seams where the unit body is
held together. Those areas are very vulnerable to rust because the
layers of metal are so close together there is capillary action to
draw brine up into them, and the spot welding makes the metal
susceptible to rusting. The skinny oils are meant to protect those
seams, but to be really effective they need to be reapplied annually.
>Do they do the
>wheel wells as well when they do only undercoating? Also, what
>product do they use?
Who's they?
>What do you guys suggest for rust proofing? I plan to keep the
>car extra clean and for a long time; so do I need the full rust
>proofing or just the undercoating?
I would say both.
>My other 91 Integra only
>started to develop rust after 8 or 9 year, but I was not keeping
>it as clean as I plan to with this one...
Then plan on pulling up the carpets every spring and getting the salt
that has fallen off your winter boots out of them. That's a main cause
of rusted out floorboards. Also be aware that a lot of rusing can be
going on underneath plastic trim panels. Get a magnet and check to see
how much of what looks like metal isn't!
In winter avoid parking in heated underground garages. Rust doesn't
happen when the car is cold, it happens when temperatures are near
freezing and brine slush is liquid and mobile.
If you really seriously want to stop rust cold, use this stuff
www.por15.com
It's expensive, it's a pain in the ass to apply and you'll have to put
it on yourself before undercoat is applied, but man does it work!