Confidence needed!
2 years ago, I DIY replaced all 4 brake rotors and pads on my daughter's 1994 del Sol. I also replaced the brake fluid. Now, I want to do essentially the same thing to my 2004 Accord EX V-6. Are there any major differences that would cause me any concern? i.e. the antilock brakes?, removing the disc, etc. Is it as straight forward a job as the del Sol was? Any opionions, help would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think you will have a problem. Older Accords have some work involved when you have to get off the front rotors. ABS has nothing to do with a typical brake job. There is a notched wheel behind the spindle that the sensors use to pickup wheel rotation. That stays put. In 98 they changed the front rotor setup to be more like the rest of the world. No need to pull the rotor and bearing out. So long as you are familiar with the subtle issues of how to get the caliper pistons to retract, I don't think you should have any issues. Here is a link that talks about the change to the front brake setup.
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-3...placement.html
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-3...placement.html
I don't think you will have a problem. Older Accords have some work involved when you have to get off the front rotors. ABS has nothing to do with a typical brake job. There is a notched wheel behind the spindle that the sensors use to pickup wheel rotation. That stays put. In 98 they changed the front rotor setup to be more like the rest of the world. No need to pull the rotor and bearing out. So long as you are familiar with the subtle issues of how to get the caliper pistons to retract, I don't think you should have any issues. Here is a link that talks about the change to the front brake setup.
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-3...placement.html
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-3...placement.html
In 98 they changed the front rotor setup to be more like the rest of the world.
Should be easy. Front caliper are pressed to collapse. Rear are twist ALL THE WAY to retract.
After you finish the rears, with the car jackked up on both rears, turn car on, give a very firm press on the brake pedal.
turn car off, pull emergency cable to 2-3 clicks and go t the rear to check that the rear wheels are draging. If they are not, you will need to retract the caliper again until you get it right.
Pay close attention to the rear, test the emergency brake cable when done.
After you finish the rears, with the car jackked up on both rears, turn car on, give a very firm press on the brake pedal.
turn car off, pull emergency cable to 2-3 clicks and go t the rear to check that the rear wheels are draging. If they are not, you will need to retract the caliper again until you get it right.
Pay close attention to the rear, test the emergency brake cable when done.
You should really notice a slight drag of the rear brakes with the lever pulled just one click, but 2 to 3 isn't bad. After you've changed pads, you need to pump the pedal several times (w/ engine running) to get the pressure back up, b/c the pistons haven't come back out yet. Just giving one firm press isn't the way to do it, although it may get the job done, best to give several moderate pressure (and distance) pushes on the pedal until it firms up close to before the change.
Some service manuals don't mention this, not sure if all Hondas are supposed to have this done or not, but on some cars you're supposed to loosen the e-brake cable before you pump the brakes up, following pad change, and then tighten up the cable again and check that it's working correctly. However, I think skipping this step (assuming e-brake is properly set to begin with) will just prolong the time before it adjusts and works perfectly, after it's driven a little.
Some service manuals don't mention this, not sure if all Hondas are supposed to have this done or not, but on some cars you're supposed to loosen the e-brake cable before you pump the brakes up, following pad change, and then tighten up the cable again and check that it's working correctly. However, I think skipping this step (assuming e-brake is properly set to begin with) will just prolong the time before it adjusts and works perfectly, after it's driven a little.



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