Alright, the cooling fan i'm not sure turns on or not. It was about 87 today and i let it idle for 15 mins to see if it would work before i take it anywhere. The coolant looks good but someone could have easily done that before i came to pick it up. Whats the easiest way to test this. I'm not positive the needle moves cause i think it did but i'm not positive it was moving towards hot. It was a little less than half and i thought on my accord a few years ago it was just about the C and then the cooling fan would kick on.

I guess i should just unplug it from the thermostat housing and see if it turns on and then ground it and see if it shuts off but .......... well i guess i kinda answered my own prob there........ anyway here's some other things.

I got an exhuast from the junkyard, its in really decent shape. I got it on and there's no cat so i just got a pipe and some couplers till i get it welded this week. It sounds like its still leaking out the flexpipe because for one the rubber bushing is torn so i'm sure it bounced enogh times to break it open but how does a flexpipe work. It doesn't look torn apart, no wire threads hanging?

And thirdly, and i'm still searching, i know the bumper has to come off to replace the headlight assembly. Question is, how does the bumper come off lol. I know the plastic fender mud sheilds come out but i couldn't see to find the bumper to unibody bolts. I also don't have interior lights so i assume a contact is still closed and the car almost dies under lifting off the gas but thats stuff i'll check out in my garage and not my apartment parking lot.

 

nevermind, got the headlight assembly replaced. Easy but seemed like forever in 90 degree weather. Which i heard is what the temp is now. I'm gonna go pass out and rest for a while. Any help on the other stuff would be awesome though.

 

Follow the lower radiator hose back to the thermostat housing (sorta below the throttlebody). There's a sensor in the T-stat housing; thats the fan switch. Unplug it & jumper the wire with a paperclip. Key on - the fans should run. If they run, that proves the motors, relays, fuses, & wiring are all OK. The only thing left is to prove that the switch works.

Let it run without moving the car long enough to heat up & trigger the fan to run. Just in case the switch is bad, be prepared to drive around the block or something. Just moving 20 mph pushes plenty of air thru the radiator to cool it down.

 

if its too hot why not just shut it down and prevent further heat generation from the combustion chamber. I noticed when i turned on the ac the fan kicked on so i'm guess the swtich or i just didn't let it idle enough.

Where on the temp gauge the needle usually stop. Been a while since i've rocked a honda. I thought it was a bit above the C mark. Unless its the halfway point.

 

Driving cools the radiator while still running the waterpump to avoid hot spots in the head. I'm not talking about racing around, just easy driving. Shutting it down is probably safe too.

AC triggers the fans thru a different part of the circuit, so when you jumper the switch you check the other part of the circuit.

Normally the gauge sits about 1/3 scale while driving. When stopped & idling it goes above 1/2 before the fan comes on. Its not the most accurate gauge, so some individual cars are different. Once you check this, it should be repeatable so next year it should switch in the same place on YOUR car.

 

fair enough, i'll try it again tonight and see if the gauge works. Also this time i'm gonna leave the cap off to see if the thermostat opens. I'm sure it does as warm as it was but at least this way i can see more things going on and tell when the cooling fan should turn on.

 

just turn on ur AC and both the fans should be working even when the motor is cold.

there is no need to leave the cap off, thermostat (atleast in this matter) has nothing to do with fan not running

 

well no but i would still like to at least check to make sure its opening. I got the window fixed, the door lights i can't figure out just yet.

The dash still triggers that the doors are open or that the left or the right door is open so the switches are working. Next stop is the dome light i suppose. Last i remember if it was on off the lights never came on unless its on open or on. Next i need some valve cover gasket and tube seals for the spark plugs. The plugs were sitting in oil and the plugs core is down in the ceramic material. So i figure i may do the disty cap and rotor while i'm at it. So far she's coming along. Even found a new cupholder at the yard