tach way off, 96 accord ex
#1
tach way off, 96 accord ex
speedometer wasn't working on a 96 accord ex automatic, it would work once in a while, but usually not
so we switched out the cluster, got one off ebay, from a 95 accord ex i guess...automatic.
seems like it works fine, except the RPM tach is WAY off. according to that we're shifting at 8,000rpm + at like 2/3 throttle. constantly at way to high of a rpm.
any idea's? bad cluster again? dont know if it matters but it doesn't have a ABS light, and the oem one did....abs doesn't work anyways so its no big deal.
so we switched out the cluster, got one off ebay, from a 95 accord ex i guess...automatic.
seems like it works fine, except the RPM tach is WAY off. according to that we're shifting at 8,000rpm + at like 2/3 throttle. constantly at way to high of a rpm.
any idea's? bad cluster again? dont know if it matters but it doesn't have a ABS light, and the oem one did....abs doesn't work anyways so its no big deal.
#2
v-card member alpha
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Assplosion, NE
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the tach reads off the ignitor (a.k.a. ignition module) on your car just like mine. However, issues with the ignition coil being on it's way out can also cause the tach to read incorrectly.
Assuming the cluster is wired up correctly I would check the connections under the distributor cap to make sure they're tight and clean. You could also use a voltmeter to check the resistance of the coil to make sure it's within spec.
If it was a loose ground or something like that I would expect the tach to jump around, not consistently over-read which is what my civic's was doing prior to the coil going out.
To be clear, that wouldn't have anything to do with the problems with the speedo of the old cluster not working and I'm not saying you should go buy any new parts until you're sure what the issue is.
Hope that helps
Assuming the cluster is wired up correctly I would check the connections under the distributor cap to make sure they're tight and clean. You could also use a voltmeter to check the resistance of the coil to make sure it's within spec.
If it was a loose ground or something like that I would expect the tach to jump around, not consistently over-read which is what my civic's was doing prior to the coil going out.
To be clear, that wouldn't have anything to do with the problems with the speedo of the old cluster not working and I'm not saying you should go buy any new parts until you're sure what the issue is.
Hope that helps
#3
still have ur old tach? take out the white cover from the back, then take out the black/clear plastic cover from teh front. then behind the tach guage, there're 4 big screws, unscrew those and ur tach will come right off, swap that into ur new cluster and that should be it.
#5
thanks for the help guys. i dont think its the distributor, i was reading about that, but the old tach worked fine before the swap...well not sure how accurate it was, but it was believable...
didn't know you could switch out the tach itself, i guess we will do that....we could probably switch out the gear selector lights too...to my knowledge it was only the speedometer that didn't work. we could put just the speedometer in the old cluster, but its kinda nice not having a ABS light that wont go away too.
didn't know you could switch out the tach itself, i guess we will do that....we could probably switch out the gear selector lights too...to my knowledge it was only the speedometer that didn't work. we could put just the speedometer in the old cluster, but its kinda nice not having a ABS light that wont go away too.
#6
also, behind the dash there are light bulbs, that have a blue rubber cover on them....what happens if you remove that? i imagine it will be brighter.
was thinking of taking a blue sharpie to them instead, what id like is stock color but brighter...its very dim
was thinking of taking a blue sharpie to them instead, what id like is stock color but brighter...its very dim
Last edited by shift_grind; 09-15-2007 at 06:44 AM.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Lufkin, Texas
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I've done to mine, the illumination is def. brighter, but I was going for white, but the color is still blue-green, guess the color is in the gauges and not the bulbs, but it does make me wonder why the bulb covers were even put on there since they just block light output and the gauges are still the same color without them anyway...
#9
thanks for the help guys. i dont think its the distributor, i was reading about that, but the old tach worked fine before the swap...well not sure how accurate it was, but it was believable...
didn't know you could switch out the tach itself, i guess we will do that....we could probably switch out the gear selector lights too...to my knowledge it was only the speedometer that didn't work. we could put just the speedometer in the old cluster, but its kinda nice not having a ABS light that wont go away too.
didn't know you could switch out the tach itself, i guess we will do that....we could probably switch out the gear selector lights too...to my knowledge it was only the speedometer that didn't work. we could put just the speedometer in the old cluster, but its kinda nice not having a ABS light that wont go away too.
DO NOT TAKE OUT THE NEEDLES! thats the only thing u have to worry about
#10
i had to take out the needles, as my old tach had halo gauges on them (previous owner) and glue all over the faceplate. so i had to use my old tach, new tach cover
what a F'ing mess. i put the needle back on, and it either wouldn't work at all, was sticky, or read 1200rpm was 3,000rpm. then id take the needle off and move it down to about the right spot and it would stop working completely....
so all of my sunday got spent f'ing with this thing, but it finally works. it says idle is at about 800rpm, which sounds right. and it doesn't go all the way up to 8,000rpm at 2/3 throttle.
dont know how accurate it is, but it looks believable. and since its a auto, thats all i care about.
what a F'ing mess. i put the needle back on, and it either wouldn't work at all, was sticky, or read 1200rpm was 3,000rpm. then id take the needle off and move it down to about the right spot and it would stop working completely....
so all of my sunday got spent f'ing with this thing, but it finally works. it says idle is at about 800rpm, which sounds right. and it doesn't go all the way up to 8,000rpm at 2/3 throttle.
dont know how accurate it is, but it looks believable. and since its a auto, thats all i care about.