I tried doing this once and really regretted it. There is a special puller you should use, but I had a real hard time - ended up damaging the threads on the axle. The inside of the rotor is splined so it is really on there. The slide hammer is a better idea if I had thought of it, but I still wouldn't recommend it. Anyway, it will be worth taking it in to the shop - even the dealership I took it to said they always struggle with those. Use a lot of WD40 and start spraying a few days in advance to penetrate. Good luck!

 

If the rotor removal on the Accord is anything like the Vigor, there's a way to remove without damaging the bearing. You'll first have to get access to 4 bolts that hold the bearing, to the knuckle. You'll need to remove wheel, remove spindle nut, seperate lower ball jooint, seperate axle from knuckle, and you will have access to the 4 bolts. They should be 12 point bolts. Take them off, replace bolts with longer threaded ones, and use impact hammer to push bearing, hub, and rotor off. Rotor should come right out from there.

Good luck.

 

I agree with shawnhu's post except for the last step. You don't have to press the bearing out of the hub to remove the rotor. Once you remove the brake caliper, the upper and lower ball joints and the 4 12 point bolts that attach the knuckle to the hub (they are on the back of the knuckle and are hard to see with everything assembled) and you have removed the 4 bolts that attach the rotor to the hub (the ones you see when the wheel is removed) you give the rotor a quarter turn and slide it out from the rear of the hub. The bearing and hub stay intact.

 

I use this method as well. Never have to seperate the bearing. Takes about ten minutes to swap rotors. I use some old head bolts I have aquired. I believe they are 10mm by 1.25. Nice trick for a flatrater.

 

Now your saying that if I Do the following
1. remove caliper/ pads
2. remove spindle bolt
3. remove the 4 bolts
4. remove lower ball joint (to get CV shaft out)
5. tap bearing/hub out
6. remove 4 bolts on rotor.

Now if this right why do some many people go after snapping the bearing apart with the risk of damaging a perfectly fine bearing. Do I have to torque the spindle nut to 181ft-lb. All I have is a torque wrench that goes up to 150ft-lb.

 

I used the four headbolts in the back side of the knuckle idea. That's the only way I was getting my rustbelt rotors off.

Either get a bigger torque wrench or just use an 18" breaker bar and get them REALLY tight. If you're reusing the axle nut, you'll know when they're tight because the staked in part will line up.