New to the Forum - 91 Accord Problem - Engine Miss
First off I am a new registered user but I have used this forum in the past for researching issues on my 91 Accord EX... Technically I am a newb.
I bought this car to give to my grandson when he turns 16 next September.
It has 160k on it in decent shape and once I have it in decent running condition I want to add some goodies to it like a decent stereo, wheels/tires, decent seats and whatever else 16 year old kids would like.
I've fixed the main relay by resoldering it. It failed inspection due to emissions so I changed plugs/wires, oil and filter and it passed (go figure), soldered the stock radio so the speakers don't cut out and now I am at the next issue, an engine miss.
The car ran fine since I bought it 18 months ago (only put maybe 2,000 miles on it at best). I take it to the airport and leave it when I travel instead of my F150 Lightning (okay y'all, don't nail me for it). One morning heading to the airport I couldn't help but play with a guy and I really rev'd it high but figured the auto trans would keep things safe since it was in drive.
I beat the guy in to the next stop light and that was that... until I noticed the engine off idle had a miss or stutter. It seamed to clear up in higher rpms but it just didn't feel as strong as it did before, more like a dropped cylinder.
Had to get to the airport and except for accelerating from a stop, it was bearable.
Coming home from my trip all was well... I thought. Once the motor gets warmed up the miss is back. I changed the plugs again thinking I may have fowled one out. Drove it, fine until it warmed up and the miss/stutter was back. Pulled each plug looking at them carefully and noticed one was wet from oil... not on the electrode but around the base of the plug thread on up. Thinking it was shorting out due to the oil I pulled the valve cover off to change the gasket and the o-rings for the plugs/valve cover seat. Drove it and the miss/stutter is still there. ARGH.
Now I am thinking it could be an injector or possibly the distributor cap.
If anyone can chime in with direction and knowledge I would greatly appreciate it. Your forum is very helpful and now that I am a member, hopefully I can return the favor.
I bought this car to give to my grandson when he turns 16 next September.
It has 160k on it in decent shape and once I have it in decent running condition I want to add some goodies to it like a decent stereo, wheels/tires, decent seats and whatever else 16 year old kids would like.
I've fixed the main relay by resoldering it. It failed inspection due to emissions so I changed plugs/wires, oil and filter and it passed (go figure), soldered the stock radio so the speakers don't cut out and now I am at the next issue, an engine miss.
The car ran fine since I bought it 18 months ago (only put maybe 2,000 miles on it at best). I take it to the airport and leave it when I travel instead of my F150 Lightning (okay y'all, don't nail me for it). One morning heading to the airport I couldn't help but play with a guy and I really rev'd it high but figured the auto trans would keep things safe since it was in drive.
I beat the guy in to the next stop light and that was that... until I noticed the engine off idle had a miss or stutter. It seamed to clear up in higher rpms but it just didn't feel as strong as it did before, more like a dropped cylinder.
Had to get to the airport and except for accelerating from a stop, it was bearable.
Coming home from my trip all was well... I thought. Once the motor gets warmed up the miss is back. I changed the plugs again thinking I may have fowled one out. Drove it, fine until it warmed up and the miss/stutter was back. Pulled each plug looking at them carefully and noticed one was wet from oil... not on the electrode but around the base of the plug thread on up. Thinking it was shorting out due to the oil I pulled the valve cover off to change the gasket and the o-rings for the plugs/valve cover seat. Drove it and the miss/stutter is still there. ARGH.
Now I am thinking it could be an injector or possibly the distributor cap.
If anyone can chime in with direction and knowledge I would greatly appreciate it. Your forum is very helpful and now that I am a member, hopefully I can return the favor.
First of all I would like to say welcome to HAN and that is a good car choice for your grandson (I have the same thing but 5 spd):goodjob: As for the misfire, I'm not sure what it is from what you've described. You said there was oil around the spark plug, that shouldn't happen. I would've said to change the o-rings, cuz I had a friend that had something sorta like that and that was the problem. Hmmm, I'll do a bit of investigating and get back to you if I find anything.
Ya try cap and rotor wouldn't hurt.The 91 have a problem with the fast idle thermo valve coming loose(its one the intake it has 2 coolant hoses to it no electrical plug in).You can take the 2 bolts loose of the top and tighten the wax element down with a flat head screw driver.Be gentle.Dis connect you battery for a while re connect it and let the car idle for 30 min to re learn the idle.Also the iac(idle air control)can leak coolant internally causing you engine to suck coolant.Take it off(two coolant hoses and one electrical plug in on the intake)look for coolant in the air passages.A compression test might tell you a lot and some times injectors leak causing a rich condition.To test for leaking injectors hook up a fuel psi gauge run it and shut it off you should not see a fuel psi drop for an hour or 2.If it drops right off take apart you intake and look for a wet port that port would contain your problem injector.
First of all I would like to say welcome to HAN and that is a good car choice for your grandson (I have the same thing but 5 spd):goodjob: As for the misfire, I'm not sure what it is from what you've described. You said there was oil around the spark plug, that shouldn't happen. I would've said to change the o-rings, cuz I had a friend that had something sorta like that and that was the problem. Hmmm, I'll do a bit of investigating and get back to you if I find anything.
Ya try cap and rotor wouldn't hurt.The 91 have a problem with the fast idle thermo valve coming loose(its one the intake it has 2 coolant hoses to it no electrical plug in).You can take the 2 bolts loose of the top and tighten the wax element down with a flat head screw driver.Be gentle.Dis connect you battery for a while re connect it and let the car idle for 30 min to re learn the idle.Also the iac(idle air control)can leak coolant internally causing you engine to suck coolant.Take it off(two coolant hoses and one electrical plug in on the intake)look for coolant in the air passages.A compression test might tell you a lot and some times injectors leak causing a rich condition.To test for leaking injectors hook up a fuel psi gauge run it and shut it off you should not see a fuel psi drop for an hour or 2.If it drops right off take apart you intake and look for a wet port that port would contain your problem injector.
Thanks and keep those ideas coming.
The car is cool and my first import even though it is for my grandson. I like it and think I'll look for something for me once I pass it over to my grandosn.
If you get a honda get one with a b,h,or a k series engine you will love it.The ds and fs have the potential for good power but not fresh out of the box.You have an f in the accord.
Last edited by Fuse; Dec 31, 2006 at 03:36 PM.
Their is a little stamp next to the trans thy start with b,d,h,k,f, or j(their are some others)after the series is the displacement so 15,16,17,18,20,21,22,24 so on.So a b16=a 1.6 litter a f22=a 2.2 litter.Usually the vtec dohc engine are stronger.And if you don't know vtec is an extra high lift high duration cam lobe the kicks in at higher rpms so you have the best of both low end tork high hp out put on the top end.Some engines also come with a 2 stage intake one short runner one long one
If you are looking for some thing affordable and a good power output i like the acura integras thy come with a b18 non vetc(except the gsr or the type r).Try to test drive a second gen integra(1990-1993)or a third gen integra(1994-2001).Thy have a nice feel.Or go with a civic thy have a huge aftermarket following and you start with a d witch can be turboed or swapped for a b,h or k(check out hasport.com for the mounts).Crxs are light also have a huge aftermarket following.Preludes are good also starts with an h or f motor.
All hondas are good in their own way.Read a book i recommend the honda and acura performance handbook by mike ancas to get you started.Warning honda and acuras are addicting and all your ford friends will not see the lite.I started a die hard gm fan hating hondas but now look where i am a honda chat form lol.
If you are looking for some thing affordable and a good power output i like the acura integras thy come with a b18 non vetc(except the gsr or the type r).Try to test drive a second gen integra(1990-1993)or a third gen integra(1994-2001).Thy have a nice feel.Or go with a civic thy have a huge aftermarket following and you start with a d witch can be turboed or swapped for a b,h or k(check out hasport.com for the mounts).Crxs are light also have a huge aftermarket following.Preludes are good also starts with an h or f motor.
All hondas are good in their own way.Read a book i recommend the honda and acura performance handbook by mike ancas to get you started.Warning honda and acuras are addicting and all your ford friends will not see the lite.I started a die hard gm fan hating hondas but now look where i am a honda chat form lol.


