00 Accord Sway Bar End Link, Help
Hey Guys, I need some help here:
My 2000 accord rear sway bar end link started to make noise when turns even though it's just over 50k miles, tried to replace it myself over the weekend based on some previous posts, However, just can't seem to loose the bolts on either end of the end link eventhough the bolts are not rusted, also applied WD-40 the day before. Is there a better way to loose the bolts besides using a wrench? or you need some kind of power tool to do it? or I have to send it to a garage instead?
Many Thanks..
My 2000 accord rear sway bar end link started to make noise when turns even though it's just over 50k miles, tried to replace it myself over the weekend based on some previous posts, However, just can't seem to loose the bolts on either end of the end link eventhough the bolts are not rusted, also applied WD-40 the day before. Is there a better way to loose the bolts besides using a wrench? or you need some kind of power tool to do it? or I have to send it to a garage instead?
Many Thanks..
sway bar threads are the worst. I was able to change my rear unit, but had to have the dealer do my fronts after I botched the job and got the nuts stuck half off.
I ended up bending an allen key, if you don't bend the allen key you aren't turning hard enough.
You can always cut the end links off too.
I ended up bending an allen key, if you don't bend the allen key you aren't turning hard enough.
You can always cut the end links off too.
When I replaced my rear ones I heated them up and cooled them with cold water right after. Plus I started lubing them with WD-40 like two weeks before that and they came of much easier than front ones.
If they will not come off regular way you'll have to cut them.
If they will not come off regular way you'll have to cut them.
Also - if the end links are damaged - esp very rusty - you might (and I place the emphasis on the word: 'might') be eligible for a Honda program or 'campaign' fix, since there is a factory program that entitles certain Honda owners to a free replacement regardless of mileage - of the original wimpy rear sway bar links on all '98-'02 Accords 'cause they have been failing due to corrosion.
The replacement links are beefier, and only available in pairs. The originals were available individually, but all dealers were instructed to purge their inventory of the old design parts, and are not supposed to sell any of them anymore. Honda dealers also are to install them at n/c under the stipulations of this 'campaign'.
Although my local Honda dealer told me that the 'campaign' only applies to vehicles sold in the NorthEast (and if they've already failed), he's incorrect according to Honda. [my local dealer can be a real dick at times] Afterall, rust is rust. . . If you need the # of the campaign let me know.
In the meantime, try using 'PB Blaster', and spray it on everyday for a week, and hopefully the constant flexing might break the rust loose. Also, try and fit a piece of pipe over the straight end of an allen wrench, and use the longer length of the pipe as a lever. Wear gloves, too. Or, if you have the proper sized allen socket use it in a breaker bar or a long torque wrench. And, remember that you'll need to use a metrix-sized allen wrench or allen socket. . .
The replacement links are beefier, and only available in pairs. The originals were available individually, but all dealers were instructed to purge their inventory of the old design parts, and are not supposed to sell any of them anymore. Honda dealers also are to install them at n/c under the stipulations of this 'campaign'.
Although my local Honda dealer told me that the 'campaign' only applies to vehicles sold in the NorthEast (and if they've already failed), he's incorrect according to Honda. [my local dealer can be a real dick at times] Afterall, rust is rust. . . If you need the # of the campaign let me know.
In the meantime, try using 'PB Blaster', and spray it on everyday for a week, and hopefully the constant flexing might break the rust loose. Also, try and fit a piece of pipe over the straight end of an allen wrench, and use the longer length of the pipe as a lever. Wear gloves, too. Or, if you have the proper sized allen socket use it in a breaker bar or a long torque wrench. And, remember that you'll need to use a metrix-sized allen wrench or allen socket. . .
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