I gotta replace my front engine mount.
I guess over time wear and tear.
My friend told me that costs like 180 bucks? I went to hondaparts.com and I think i see it there for 25 bucks. Could I be looking at the wrong part?

I just need the front rubber part but I guess the whole bottom part is needed?
They call that piece the "stopper '.

 

affirmative, you just need the stopper.
not sure if you have an auto/manual or trim but slhondaparts.com lists it for 18 bucks

 

sorry, yes its an automatic. The dealership I bought the car from sells it for 25 bucks.
How hard is it to remove the bolts off the stopper? My friend is going to help me change it. We plan on lifting the engine a bit and just taking out that horizontal bolt and the two bolts holding down the stopper. Hopefully this is something that doesnt require a mechanic. My friend is a mechanic and we have basic tools in our garages. No air tools though. He recently changed the mounts in his 01 TL so I doubt it will be a problem.

 

I'm having to do the exact same thing. Here's the write up from the Hayne's manual for that car (mine's a 99 V6 EX).

Engine Mounts - check and replacement

Check:
1. There are four engine mounts on V6 models, of which the front and rear are computer-controlled
2. During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove the weight from the mounts.
3. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. WARNING: DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine when it's supported only by a jack.
4. Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the casing.
5. Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.
6. Rubber preservative should be applied to the mounts to slow deterioration.
7. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands (if not already done). CAUTION: The stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system. Make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.


FRONT MOUNT:
1. The front mount is located between the engine and the radiator
2. Remove the large nut where the mount stud goes through the engine bracket.
3. Remove the FOUR bolts holding the mount to the chassis, then disconnect the vacuum hose from the bottom of the mount.
4. Raise the engine enough for the stud to clear the upper bracket and remove the mount.
5. Installation of new mount is reverse of removal
Note: Tighten the bolts to the specifications only after the powertrain weight is back onto the mounts and the jack is removed.

Final tightening, all mounts:
To ensure maximum bushing life and prevent excessive noise and vibration,k the vehicle should be level and the engine weight should be on the mounts during the final tightening stage. Note: Use non-hardening thread locking compound on the nuts/bolts. Ensure that the bushings are not twisted or offset. If you have replaced more than one mount, or when you are installing the engine, tighten the mounts in the following order: front, rear, passenger-side, and driver's side.

I wish I could scan the pictures for you but they're pretty redundant really.

I hope this helps someone!

 

Easier said that done. The V6 front mount (by the radiator) is a LOT bigger than the mount used on 4cyl. models. It should be a lot of fun squeezing that chunk of metal out of there.

 

I simply couldn't get mine out, bolts wouldn't budge.

 

well basically I got them off. The 4cyl is alot easier than the 6cyl mounts.
You dont have to lift the engine as its held up by the other mounts.
Definitely gotta use air tools for this.

my mount was jacked up!.
If your standing in front of the car and looking at the engine. It looked like it was tilted to the right which what was probably causing my minor shifting problem.
Replaced it, changed tranny fluid and feels as if I just drove it out of the dealership again.
Well worth the 20 bucks for the OEM mount.

 

Now that I'm in my new house, air tools are going to be a worth investment.

 

ive seen some pretty nice small ones on ebay.

my reget is that it takes a few minutes for the compressor to build up more air.
I should of gotten a bigger one.