A 1994 honda accord ex, 4 cyl VTEC, 135K miles. Stopped at the store
one day a couple of months ago and when I returned car would not start
- turning over, but not firing. Had it towed to repair shop. They said
distributor was fried (no spark). They replaced it with a new distributor ($450 plus $200 labor - think I was ripped offh. I went to pick it up and it started, but the check engine light came on after about 2 seconds. The mechanic told me to drive it for a week or 2 and it should go away after the computer learns and adjusts settings. OK, I'll try that, but it never went away. When you start the car, the check engine light is off, then after about 2 seconds, it lights up. I could tell it wasn't a hard error, but was getting a code after the engine started running each time. The engine runs good with no apparent performance problems. I took it back to the mechanic. He replaced the distributor again (no cost to me this time), saying maybe he got a bad one. Same problem. He read the code with a scan tool and it was 09 (CYP), noisy position sensor. After scheduling 2 more appointments and replacing 2 more distributors, the same problem remained. The mechanic was stumped (and at wits end). I told him it was most likely incompatible parts from his supplier. I went on the internet and found another source (and much cheaper at $189). He agreed to buy it and see what happens. He installed it and NO check engine light. I picked the car up and was driving, when about a half hour later the check engine light comes on. Again, the code is 09, only now it does not come on after 2 seconds, but seems to be related to heat - the longer the car is off, the longer it takes for the check engine light to come on. In the morning, after sitting all night, the light will come on after about a half hour of driving. If I shut the engine off, then immediately restart it, the light is off, but returns again in a couple of minutes (engine is heated up). I don't want to go back to the same mechanic for obvious reasons. I don't know where to look from here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

HMM your distributor was fried? most of the time you just gotta replace the cap and rotor due to the contacts being worn out but you have a new one now so that doesn't matter......other then the light coming on when the engine gets "warmer" does the car run fine??


P.S.- CODE = Cylinder Position sensor
Open or short in CYP sensor circuit, defective CYP sensor

why don't you just replace it????

 

I'm stilling running the same problem......Did they replace the Whole Distributor, with a OEM Honda one? You need to check the connections with a voltmeter.....and if all else fails try replacing the ECU.

 

You can't replace the single sensor you have to replace the whole Distributor assembly.

 

Oh i see....he's gone through 3 already and same problem though, but your right i don't think he mentioned going OEM....

If you say you found one "cheaper" online maybe thats your problem....when in doubt always go OEM they were made for our cars and might be a little steaper, see if that solves your problem. Not saying other brands are bad (some are) but doesn't hurt to replace it one more time you already did it 3 times lol

 

Yeah check ebay....also you might wanna try that new ECU as well

EDIT : make sure they reset the ECU after installing the new Dizzy

 

[quote=F22B Prelude]Yeah check ebay....also you might wanna try that new ECU as well

Yes, it was fried. I think there are 3 sensors in there, along with a circuit. The circuit was toast. It can't be replaced - you need a whole distributor. You would expect a distributor to last the life of the vehicle, but it's reported that many honda's need early distributor replacements. Apparently, they just aren't designed or built to withstand the harsh environment.
I believe when you take your car in to the local mechanic, they buy parts at the local 'generic parts outlet' store. The one bought from internet mail order was a different vendor, but still has a problem. I hear honda's are very pickey about the electronics in their distributors. I may try an OEM honda like you said, and report back.
I don't think it's the ecu. Here's what I found on the web about it (from honda employee):

"Of the million or so vehicles American Honda and Honda Canada sell each year, maybe five or six (yes, that's right: 5 or 6) come back with actual bad computers. All the rest of the returned ECMs test good by Honda, and were replaced in error.
Unless the computer has got damaged by flood, other moisture intrusion, impact, or serious electrical overload, the probability of the computer being bad is virtually zero. Honda computers are exceedingly reliable. Do not waste your money replacing them. Your problem almost certainly lies elsewhere. "

The car seems to run fine otherwise (for a honda), but I can't get rid of that pesky light.

 

I hope he is using a OEM distributor they not to expensive if you buy the housing, also what was the problem with the old distributor? bad sensor or bearing ? or coil,ignitor because unless 2 of the 3 sensors are fryed the car will still run....since this is a very simple problem as only a few things can cause the code 9 .. distrubutor,ECU (rare but does happen),wireing from distributor to ECU and timing belt off a tooth.

 

The old distributor was fried - no spark at all!
The mechanic replaced the distributor with 1 from the local auto parts store, not honda. He tried 4 of them, but they all acted the same. He then purchased 1 from an online store where many users reported good results.
It has the same 09 error code, but different symptoms.
Note that the 94 ex distributor (Hitachi) is different from the LX (TEC).

 

hi - i'm back again.
just wondering is there is anyone out there that knows hows to troubleshoot this problem of 09 error (noisy cyp sendor). it seems most of the responses are just guesses - try replacing this, if that doesn't work replace that ,etc. I measured the resistance of the sensor and it checks out ok. if the code says noisy, i'm thinking that i should be able to connect a scope (i've got one) and see if there really is noise and try to correct that. does anyone know what these sensor signals should look like on a scope?