yea...and if its the alternator, if i put a new battery in then eventually its go to because its not being charged? then i know its the alternator that faulty

 

I had the same exact problem a few weeks ago and the culprit was the battery. If it starts up fine without any problems when you jump it, but just clicks next time you go to start it without jumping it, it's your battery. Most cases, a car will make that clicking sound when either the battery is dead or almost dead or the starter is dead. If there is nothing else wrong with the car, I would say get a new battery and you should be fine.

 

Ok update......i had checked the voltage on the battery this early this afternoon (10.5 which is low).....i checked about 1/2 hr ago and it read (10.1)....i got a boost, put the key in and turned, it started with NO hesitation at all so i run over to check the battery and it jumped to ~~13.4 V soooo the alternator has to be working since anything over 12/12.6 V is surplus to any accessories i use.....so i let it run at idle sounds perfect i check the Volts read around ~12.6......so after about 10 mins, i turn my air and radio on and it starts dropping a lil to about ~~11.4, i tap the gas pedal and the Voltage spikes up to about 13.6 immediatly so i know the alternator is supplying power to the battery after a lil bit at idle is settles down and stays in the 12.5-12.6 area....so im thinking everythin is ok so after about more then a 1/2 hr of the car being on i turn it off and have my dad stay at the battery terminal with the multimeter checking the voltage....i turn it off and go to turn it back on and SAME THING HAPPENS, just clicks, no turning over or trying to start, nothing. the battery read about 11.8-11.9 V when i tried to restart soooooo my dad said it could be my ignition coil. The ignition coil isn't charging and doesn't have enough power to start the car and when i get a boost the extra battery makes up for the lose and starts up fine but since its not charging, when i go to start again i get nothing...what do you think?????

 

It's not the ignition coil. The coil has nothing to do with running the starter.

I was gonna have you clean & tighten the OTHER END of each battery cable, because it almost sounded like a bad connection there. That's easy to overlook, when you're cleaning & tightening the cables at the battery posts. But that doesn't explain why your battery voltage drops low.

You say your battery measures 11.8v when you tried to restart. Do you mean while you turn the key to start? Measure the battery voltage just before & continue while you turn the key to start. What does it do?

You mention it clicking but not cranking. Where is the clicking sound located? If it's at the starter (my guess), then it's likely a bad starter solenoid. Maybe you can get that by itself, but usually it's just part of the starter.

 

OK, what don't you understand about the previous posts!? It's your freakin' battery, replace the damn thing and stop going off on tangents like it's the ignition coil, etc! Go buy yourself a new battery and that'll be the end to the issue you're having with your car.

 

Ok mister "accord1278" it was what "I" suspected i tooked my car to have the battery/alternator tested....my battery is fine, the computer said my alternator was producing irrigular waves and that its faulty and need to be replaced, i stood right next the guy when he test it n when he reved it the voltage didn't even pass 12.4V (should be in the ~14 range) and thats with no accessories on and had been driving the car for an hour (got it jumped)........so its not my damn battery, i knew it wasn't

 

Bought a new alternator and just got done installing it....started her up n she started perfectly, checked the voltage and was at ~13.4.........reved the engine and topped out at 14V even...alternator is working perfect and car is running smooth took it for a ride shut it off, turned back on and started with no hesitation......SOOO yea, if you guys go through anything like i talked about (seemed like some never heard of what i experienced before) you'll know its your alternator.

PS: take it to SEARS automotive and they'll test your car's alternator and battery without you taking anything out unlike autozone where u'll have to bring your alternator in, well atleast the one around here

 

How did you not have any alternator symptoms, like the horrendous whining noise or the dash lights coming on or the electrical system fluctuating

 

yea your right....but the whining noise was more like a "HUM" which now that i thought of it (earlier today) made me realiize it was the alternator....it was a low hum and would go up with acceleration and go down when letting off the gas.....i didn't see any CEL lights i guess cuz the alternator was still working but on the verge of dying it was producing enough power but not enough to charge the battery to it appropriate voltage to start the car......when i was at Sears the guy told me that it working but its producing irregular waves and that its malfunctioning and i should replace it soon, he told me i'll be lucky to get home (25 min drive) i made sure i left my radio, lights, and a/c off....but after replacing it, everything is back to normal

 

You wouldnt have gotten a CEL but other lights would've turned on. Yeah, that humming/whirring noise is the biggest key.