Where in a 2002 Accord with the auto climate control is the Blower Transistor located? I think mine went out because the fan only works on high.

 

ttt

 

holy crap....mine just went out tonight. Doesnt work on I or II but it does on 3 and 4.

 

sounds like it may be the heater blower motor or resistor.
The heater blower motor costs like 130- 180.00.
It seems like a simple install. Only 3 screws I believe to remove it.

I was told it may also be just the resistor which is a less expensive part.
Im just going to replace the whole motor instead.

 

Since you're OG I'll take the time to help you out



Air Delivery

The climate control unit controls the blower motor and supplies a 5 VDC reference voltage to the air mixture control motor.

The air mix and mode control motors each receive inputs from the control unit. The air mix motor regulates the mixture of cold and hot air by varying the position of the heater-evaporator door. The mode control motor controls the direction and volume of outlet air. Use the MODE button to select the vents the air flows from. Some air will flow from the dashboard corner vents in all modes.

Each time you press the MODE button, the display shows the mode selected. Press the button four times to see all the modes. Both the air mix control motor and mode control motor are grounded by the control unit.

The recirculation control motor receives battery voltage through fuse 3 (in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box) when the ignition switch is ON (II). It regulates the position of the fresh/recirc door, and is controlled by two position inputs from the control unit ("Recirc" and Fresh").

Don't replace the motor dude. I highly doubt it's bad.

And buy a damn Helms h:

 

...

 

Here's the troubleshooting but I'm not going to post all the pictures..

Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and the heater fan switch ON. Does the blower run? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Go to step 16.
Turn the heater fan switch OFF.
Make sure the ignition switch ON (II). Does the blower motor run? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 9.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the blower motor 2P connector.
Disconnect the blower resistor 5P connector.
Disconnect the heater fan switch 7P connector.







Check for continuity between the No.3, 4, 5 and 6 terminals of the heater fan switch 7P connector and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire (5) between the blower motor, the blower resistor and the heater fan switch. NO - Replace the heater fan switch.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the blower resistor 5P connector.







Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No. 5 terminals of the blower resistor. Is there about 3-3.5 ohms? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Replace the blower resistor.
Reconnect the blower resistor 5P connector.
Disconnect the heater fan switch 7P connector.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).







Ground each of the heater fan switch 7Pconnector terminals individually in the following order: No.4, 5, 6 and 3. Does the blower motor run at progressively higher speeds? YES - Replace the heater fan switch. NO - Repair any open or cause of excessive resistance in the appropriate wire(s) between the blower resistor and the heater fan switch.
Turn the heater fan switch OFF and the ignition switch OFF.
Check the No.56 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No.3 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 18. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.







Connect the No.2 terminal of the blower motor 2P connector to body ground with a jumper wire.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Does the blower motor run? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Goto step 27.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the jumper wire.
Disconnect the heater fan switch 7P connector.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).







Measure the voltage between the No.3 terminal of the heater fan switch 7P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 25. NO - Repair open in the wire between the blower motor and the heater fan switch.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.







Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the heater fan switch 7P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the heater fan switch. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the heater fan switch and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G401 .
Disconnect the jumper wire.
Disconnect the blower motor 2P connector.







Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the blower motor 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the blower motor. NO - Go to step 30.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Remove the blower motor relay from the under- hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 32. NO - Replace the blower motor relay.







Measure the voltage between the No.4 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 33. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).







Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.3 fuse in the driver's under-hood fuse/relay box and the blower motor relay.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.







Check for continuity between the No.2 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between the blower motor relay and the blower motor. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the blower motor relay and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G202.

It could be a lot of stuff.

 

sounds most like an issue with the motor RESISTOR, not Transistor (a solid-state electronic device that is used to control the flow of electricity in electronic equipment and consists of a small block of a semiconductor (as germanium) with at least three electrodes)

The resistor controls the speed of the motor by limiting the current, its pretty normal for the low speeds to fail over time. It is also possible that it came disconnected.

If the motor was bad it wouldnt work at all... or fill the car up with smoke.

 

Thanks for the details. Let me pdf' this for future use.

 

I will check those fuses tonight.