well, i did not clean the wrong thing. i had a honda techician do it for me from the start. u mentioned if i had a bad solenoid id get a DTC? not sure what that is. but yea, im switching out both at the same time, cuz there 2gther on 1 part, a guy on v6p.net said it requires 3 bolts to change out this part that has both parts, and then ur done, pretty simple. i dont want to go BACK again to my installer and get charged to do a 2nd install, so i want to fix both things to guarantee i fix the problem, cars been running like shi* for years for different reasons. just want it to operate normal again.

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...902#post785902

"If it does, than you got VTEC assembly; VTEC solenoid valve and oil pressure switch.
it bolted to cylinder head with three bolts and you'll need 12mm wrench to undo them, I’m not sure how accessible those bolt are, but don't think it's going to be hard and your body is more than capable to do it."

 

i appreciate both your inputs 98coupev6(always good info/comments from you) and JimBlake

 

DTC is a diagnositc trouble code, what you get from a CEL.

I can post the install instructions for you and would have bought you said you're having a mechanic do it, right? I hope you're not paying him very much btw.

I still don't see how a bad VTEC solenoid is going to affect acceleration below the VTEC engagement point. Keep us updated!

 

The DTC doesn't guarantee that it's the valve itself. Even though you got a DTC for the VTEC stuff, your mechanic can do some testing to rule out a broken wire somewhere. But since you've already(?) bought the new spool valve assembly it seems foolish to NOT put it in. (Non-returnable electical parts?)

 

alrite, results! FINALLY, after 5 yrs, close to $800 worth of parts my car runs amazing and nice. 3 CEL's, all are GONE NOW!!! WOOOT! the vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch has solved the problem, no CEL anymore, not sure if both were bad or just 1, cuz i replaced both at the same time. the car does NOT feel gutless anymore, normal fucntions of the low and high cam working, my car accelerates nice. had CEL's for 5+ years for a catalytic converter (code 67) below threshold and that OEM cat being so expensive i always put it off. i had a bad EVAP code earlier this year, bought a evap canister recently.. 5 years of BAD gas mileage cuz i was a poor college kid who couldnt afford to fix the CEL, finally couldnt stand the hard to accelerate feeling, 22 sec 1/4 i bet, so i purchased an OEM spec catalytic converter this year (not genuine honda)+ genuine honda OEM o2 sensor (catalytic converter side)+OEM exhaust manifold o2 sensor. now, i paid for cleaning the vtec solenoid shield that did NOTHING. symptoms of my car is i'd hit the rev limiter at 3K RPM (cant go any faster, jump stops, RPM tach jumps up and down), normally the rev limiter i thought is around 6-7K on our 6th gen coupe. basically, it was chug chug chug slow from 0-30 and 50+. the car now runs smooth and accelerates like the day i bought her, but quicker cuz of the bolt-ons i have (Aem v2 CAI not v1, magnaflow catback, just threw away my apexi RS catback, dc sports 4-2-1 headers, and helix throttle body spacer). thxs guys for all the help! btw, it was YOU 98CoupeV6 that helped me diagnosis the vtec pressure switch, i found an OLD POST of yours, and you used the EXACT words "gutless", no acceleration when vtec never engages. my installer said he too had some doubts it was the vtec solenoid+pressure switch, but he said, if ur getting a code it would very well possibly be, a lot of 1257 have been the vtec pressure switch on integra's, other hondas. man, driving home i swear i saw the CEL, when u see it for 5+ years u get used to it, btw, earlier this year, some idiot messed up my timing belt, caused $2,200 worth of damages i paid, guy wouldnt pay for it. luckily i have a decent job. next car within 8 months is the 350z, or m3