I just bought a JDM cold air intake for my 01 4 cylinder accord. It came with the piping, a no name brand filter, and a no name brand bypass valve. I'm thinking about buying a K&N filter to replace the filter that my kit came with. Anyone know which K&N filter I'm supposed to get? I want something somewhat cylindric and I'm pretty sure the RU-2820 would fit but in my opinion, it looks ugly. Any suggestions would be appreciate. Also, I was wondering if I should get a name brand bypass valve as well and if so what brand recommendations? I heard from my friend that I wouldn't need name brand piping but a K&N filter is important but he never mentioned anything about the bypass valve. Thanks for your input.

 

"jdm" :lmao: I love ebay.

If you're going to get a bypass valve, sell your intake right now, pick up a used AEM CAI and put a bypass valve on that. I wouldn't trust anything else.

As far as the filter, measure the tube diameter and look on their website or give them a call. Any cone filter will fit.

 

Well, I happen to have a used (excellent condition) AEM cai (the one with no by-pass valve) with an AEM filter. If you are interested, PM me. By the way, color is silver

 

I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong, but the by pass valve is to deflect water coming into the intake, right? So, it really depends where your CAI gets installed. If it is open to the road, then I would go with a bypass valve or if you live in a very wet area. I have an AEM CAI on my car and it is protected from direct street and air because it is mounted in the wheel well above the left front tire. I suppose if I tried to plumb direct air into it I would consider the bypass valve. I was looking around and you can buy the bypass valve by itself and then cut your CAI and mount it in between the cut.

 

When the airfilter is submerged in water, there is 0 air coming in. It's a giant water vacuum.

With the bypass, air can still be sucked in though the foam filter. There is never a point where air isn't being passed though the system.


There is no physical shield on the bypass valve.

 

You need to use your head when mounting the bypass too. If you put it too low, the original filter and the bypass valve will still be submerged.

If you put it too high, water can still travel up the tube. The bypass valve will still work, but water will get in there too.

The best place to put it is where an SRI would end. That seems to be the sweet spot.

 

Has anyone dyno'd with and without the bypass before?
I've always wondered if the bypass would make the CAI pointless since the bypass would allow some hot air to mix with the cooler air. The air would still be cooler than from a SRI, but I've wondered if it would be enough to loose some of the gain from the CAI.


rwong... where do you live? what kind of wheather do you get there?

 

try doing this if you are really bored...

grab a straw.
suck on it... you get air
submerge the other end in some water.... (or beer) you get water (or beer)... at which point your engine hydrolocked and you are screwed.
cut a little hole halfway up the straw
suck on it, you get air
submerge the other end back in your drink
suck on it.
if you dont suck on it really hard, you will just get air.
When water reached the bypass, the air just continues to flow in through the bypass filter and the water (or beer) stays below.
If you suck really hard enough (reving really high), you might get some water through... but then again theres no reason to be reving high if you are driving in rain and puddles.


maybe I'm the bored one that just thought of that little experiment. lol

 

This is the best explanation of the bypass valve I've ever heard. Very nice.

 

that's actually quite a good example.




then again, anything with beer can't be bad.