Hey all, I'm a newbie to this forum.
My wife's 91 accord with 220k won't start. Here's the scoop:
turns over great
got spark to the NGKs
dizzy turns freely by hand, cam seal leaking into the cap a bit
main relay is good
getting 6.79 volts at fuel pump plug
pulled pump and jumper wired it to 12v, with no activity noted
timing belt replaced 15k ago
I put a new Autozone pump in about 5 years ago

does this sound like fuel pump? should I be getting more volts to pump?
any ideas?
thanks

 

You should get battery voltage at the pump. But only during the 1 or 2 second priming after you turn on the key. Then the pump turns off. Turns back on after the ECU sees a tachometer signal back from the distributor.

Even when you wired 12v directly to the pump it didn't run? Sounds like a bad pump.

"Distributor turns freely by hand"... ??? I hope you mean only after it's removed from the head.

 

thanks for the reply JimBlake
I got a pump and out of curiosity, I touched 12v to it to see. nothing, no sound or vibration.
the 3 pin plug under seat has 1 pin with ~6v and 1 putting out ~11.7v.
any thoughts out there before I piss away an unecessary 140$.
thanks again

 

As long as you're sure the pump fuse is fine, replace it...I had a similiar problem and after about 15 mins of panicky troubleshooting determined that my fuel pump fuse had mysteriously blown.

 

I can't locate a fuel pump fuse. At least not in the fuse box.
Does anyone know if there is some kind of internal switch that does not not allow the fuel pump to activate when performing a bench test straight to battery power with jumper wires? The one I'm testing is a brand new Carter lifetime warranty from O'reilly.

 

I spy a shitload of potential trouble areas.

 

ok, here's the latest. my bench testing method was faulty, evidently you can't use a test light for the (+) lead. so, once I discovered that idiotic error, the old pump tested out fine and whirred like a champ. I plugged in the fuel tank harness and hooked up my meter to the terminal plug that powers the pump. when I had someone turn on the key it flashed 6.xx volts for a second or two, then 11.77v and then zeroed out with the key in the on position. shouldn't the lead be maintaing 12v to the pump?
any thoughts yall? the initial pump sound was never able to be heard before I removed tank etc. my next step will be to plug in pump laying loose I guess and see if it spins up as it is supposed to immediately before start up. any thoughts appreciated

 

another correction: the plug at the pump is getting 18v for a moment then 11.77v for one to two seconds before zeroing out.

 

the pump spins up now. anyone ever heard of a fuel pump sticking internally or temporarily jamming up?

 

So is the car running fine now or no?