Need camber kit fast,,,which one is good...
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by jschmid
I've heard that Eibach's are just rebadged SPC's that are more expensive, but maybe that's just a nasty rumor. 
rear camber kit:
-spc part#: 67090
-eibach part#5.67090K
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Originally Posted by syclone
they are.. spc makes all of eibach's camber kits.
rear camber kit:
-spc part#: 67090
-eibach part#5.67090K
rear camber kit:
-spc part#: 67090
-eibach part#5.67090K
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by MrChad
Great and my camber kit is older then Schmiddy's so I'll need to start looking out for this.....so do I call Eibach or SPC if my kit's ball joints go?
who you call depends on which one you bought.. if you bought the eibach badged ones, then you call eibach..
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
From: OH
Originally Posted by MrChad
Great and my camber kit is older then Schmiddy's so I'll need to start looking out for this.....so do I call Eibach or SPC if my kit's ball joints go?
This is one of the pics I sent them:
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
My rubber is starting to crack like that but no oil drips yet 
Looks like I'll need to replace mine too. However, I have Eibach's and I can't find the invoice for them.
I didn't install mine the tire shop did when I got new tires, is this a difficult part to remove Schmiddy?
And to add insult I may have thrown out my old stock parts when we moved, just great.
Looks like I'll need to replace mine too. However, I have Eibach's and I can't find the invoice for them.
I didn't install mine the tire shop did when I got new tires, is this a difficult part to remove Schmiddy?
And to add insult I may have thrown out my old stock parts when we moved, just great.
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Schmiddy how about cleaning out your PM que?
I tried to call you but I don't have your new info for the roadrunner state....
Been doing some research guys, looks like us 6th gen folk may need to look into some Ingalls rear kits perhaps. They replace the 2 - lower control arms instead of the one upper arm.
A buddy of mine running a TSX uses them (near the same setup as the 6th gen Accord same 5 link design), he went with the Ingalls for the tow and camber adjustments. We may need to switch simply for the poor design of the SPC-Eibach upper ball joint.
This aftermarket sh** is getting old. First my B&M short shifter, then my AEM bypass valve, now my Eibach camber kits. At this rate I may never modify our TSX ever, simply by virtue of the aftermarket. They all seam to be the most shlock outfits of parts ever. Own anything more then 3-4years and you'll need to replace it all. Suddenly paying full price for the A-spec and Honda FPP gear seams like a deal.
I even looked into seeing if swapping the TSX upper rear arm in place of ours might fix the camber. The Accord has 279mm arm and the TSX has a 299mm arm, the TSX would be too long I think, 283-285mm might have been perfect, but I'm not sure. The RL has an upper arm too, but it's way too short. The CL and TL use the same arm as the Accord too, so no luck with that arm either for fixing camber. Would have been nice to swap on some OE parts to fix the camber, I'm loosing faith in the aftermarket....
Schmiddy, thanks for the post about the rear camber kit, totally ruined the good car vibe I had going this weekend, we just got the windows tinted on the TSX and now I don't even care thanks to this camber kit issue...
On an up note the SPC-Eibach camber fix method pushes the top of the rear tire out to fix camber, this gives me some tire rub on roads like the Dragons tail with the insane off camber switchbacks that fully compress my rear suspension, but the tuck in at the bottom method of the Ingalls kit may resolve this issue so we shall see.
Syclone how are your front upper Ingalls camber plates doing?
I tried to call you but I don't have your new info for the roadrunner state....
Been doing some research guys, looks like us 6th gen folk may need to look into some Ingalls rear kits perhaps. They replace the 2 - lower control arms instead of the one upper arm.
A buddy of mine running a TSX uses them (near the same setup as the 6th gen Accord same 5 link design), he went with the Ingalls for the tow and camber adjustments. We may need to switch simply for the poor design of the SPC-Eibach upper ball joint.
This aftermarket sh** is getting old. First my B&M short shifter, then my AEM bypass valve, now my Eibach camber kits. At this rate I may never modify our TSX ever, simply by virtue of the aftermarket. They all seam to be the most shlock outfits of parts ever. Own anything more then 3-4years and you'll need to replace it all. Suddenly paying full price for the A-spec and Honda FPP gear seams like a deal.
I even looked into seeing if swapping the TSX upper rear arm in place of ours might fix the camber. The Accord has 279mm arm and the TSX has a 299mm arm, the TSX would be too long I think, 283-285mm might have been perfect, but I'm not sure. The RL has an upper arm too, but it's way too short. The CL and TL use the same arm as the Accord too, so no luck with that arm either for fixing camber. Would have been nice to swap on some OE parts to fix the camber, I'm loosing faith in the aftermarket....
Schmiddy, thanks for the post about the rear camber kit, totally ruined the good car vibe I had going this weekend, we just got the windows tinted on the TSX and now I don't even care thanks to this camber kit issue...
On an up note the SPC-Eibach camber fix method pushes the top of the rear tire out to fix camber, this gives me some tire rub on roads like the Dragons tail with the insane off camber switchbacks that fully compress my rear suspension, but the tuck in at the bottom method of the Ingalls kit may resolve this issue so we shall see.
Syclone how are your front upper Ingalls camber plates doing?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
From: OH
Hey Chad. Got got my box cleaned out sorry about that lol.
Sorry to ruin your weekend as well, I do what I can.
Well I did the install myself both times, it's easy. It just kinda sucks because in theory an alignment after the install would be a good idea. I changed both rear arms and a front UBJ, so I had three corners of the car unhooked and I still haven't gotten an alignment yet...that was about 5K miles ago lol.
For the install, you just need basic hand tools. Not suprising in our climate, the ball joints like to stick. I used to fight ball joints with banging, prying, etc, but about a year ago I got a ball joint removal tool (the type with a hinge and screw) and it makes quick work of any ball joint. Technically you are supposed to tighten the inboard bolt with the wheel on the ground to avoid preloading the bushing, but screw that unless you have a lift...I can't get access like that on my car, so I've tightened it to spec both times with the car jacked up, no biggie. Hell, it's the ball joint we are worried about, not that bushing.
I've thought about the fact that the lower arm replacements might help bring the tire more inboard to help reduce rubbing, that would be a nice advantage. What kind of prices are you seeing for the Ingalls rear arms?
Ingalls hooked me up big time on my front UBJ that I needed to replace. Mine was shot and I needed a replacement, but you can't get the UBJ without buying the whole damn arm...at least I never found it after searching like crazy. Luckily someone pointed me to Ingalls because they make a UBJ replacement for their front upper arm camber kit, which happens to re-use the stock ball joint, hence making their ball joint an oem replacement. $20 or so and I was golden...the OEM arm is a LOT more lol.
Sorry to ruin your weekend as well, I do what I can.
Well I did the install myself both times, it's easy. It just kinda sucks because in theory an alignment after the install would be a good idea. I changed both rear arms and a front UBJ, so I had three corners of the car unhooked and I still haven't gotten an alignment yet...that was about 5K miles ago lol.For the install, you just need basic hand tools. Not suprising in our climate, the ball joints like to stick. I used to fight ball joints with banging, prying, etc, but about a year ago I got a ball joint removal tool (the type with a hinge and screw) and it makes quick work of any ball joint. Technically you are supposed to tighten the inboard bolt with the wheel on the ground to avoid preloading the bushing, but screw that unless you have a lift...I can't get access like that on my car, so I've tightened it to spec both times with the car jacked up, no biggie. Hell, it's the ball joint we are worried about, not that bushing.
I've thought about the fact that the lower arm replacements might help bring the tire more inboard to help reduce rubbing, that would be a nice advantage. What kind of prices are you seeing for the Ingalls rear arms?
Ingalls hooked me up big time on my front UBJ that I needed to replace. Mine was shot and I needed a replacement, but you can't get the UBJ without buying the whole damn arm...at least I never found it after searching like crazy. Luckily someone pointed me to Ingalls because they make a UBJ replacement for their front upper arm camber kit, which happens to re-use the stock ball joint, hence making their ball joint an oem replacement. $20 or so and I was golden...the OEM arm is a LOT more lol.
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Wow, I'd like to here more about this front ball joint DIY too
How do you get the OE ball joint out of the OE plate.
Ingalls, is running $120 per side from Tirerack.com so we are looking at about $240 for the lower arms, plus I'm fairly sure I will also need to buy new upper arms since I think I threw mine out.
But you end up getting both lower arms per side, camber and toe adjustments too. I don't own a balljoint puller, where did you pick up the screwtype unit, sears?
-Chad
How do you get the OE ball joint out of the OE plate.
Ingalls, is running $120 per side from Tirerack.com so we are looking at about $240 for the lower arms, plus I'm fairly sure I will also need to buy new upper arms since I think I threw mine out.
But you end up getting both lower arms per side, camber and toe adjustments too. I don't own a balljoint puller, where did you pick up the screwtype unit, sears?
-Chad