The TL-S upper strut is not solid but it is very beafy. It also pics up at four points unlike most struts. I think the Neuspeed does so too, but I'm not sure. I would have gone neuspeed but it cost 100 versus the 45 or so for the TL-S. Also when I was asking about it someone thta was really into auto-x actually switched from neuspeed to TL-S with possitive results.

You will love your new sway. When I put the combo on my car felt like it was on rails. When I turned I had the first impression of the back turning as well and not just trailing along. Weird to explain but its like having rear steering for the first time u drive the car with the new parts.

 

Thanks for the positive comments.

Shocks and struts are the same when it comes to Honda's, ignore every thing else, you can't buy a shock for a car that only needs a front strut. Well, mostly--a Strut is a shock with some additional support role to play. Example Accord struts (shocks) support the lower spring perches. MacPherson struts (Invented by GM engineer of the same name.) act as an upper control arm too. Shocks just dampen force. If your suspension will work without the damper in place you have a shock, (example: rear of most pickup trucks.) If your suspension needs the damper to hold the car up--you have have a strut.

6.0 - Other 6th GEN SWAY BARS:

As for the TL(CL) type-S sway bars and strut bars.
All CL's, TL's, type-S and regular [99+] have the same strut bar--get anyone you want for your 6th gen, they are all the same.

As for the sway bars, I find it hard to not try them for the price (sub 100 bucks). The Accord V6, TL, CL, and all type-S cars have the same 26mm+ front sway bar. So only 4-cylinders can benefit from the upgraded type-S front sways. However the V6 boys (girls) could downgrade if they wanted more oversteer.

The Regular TL and CL have an 18mm rear sway, the type-S cars have 19mm rear sways, choose the model you want for your Accord. Accords have 17mm rear sways if I recall.

Once I upgraded to the 26+mm front V6 sway I found my car did wander less on the high offset 18" tires. I have theories about why this worked but why bother, just know I stiffened the front of my 4cyl and kept the tire groove wander down a bit. If you have less aggressives wheel you may not need the front upgrade. Just remember to get the brackets and bushings needed for you sway of choice as well.

 

I believe the rears are 15mm.

My Neuspeed Bar connects at two points. To everything else :werd:

 

I measured mine when I removed it, it was 16mm...but what's 1mm anyway?

Yes...but does the neuspeed bar tie into the firewall like the Type S bars?

 

Are there any hassles in installing the TL strut bar on an '02 Accord I4? Is it necessary to drill any holes to mount it to the firewall, and what about fasteners for mounting it - do I need to purchase any nuts/bolts/washers, etc?

 

For a torsional spring, stiffness goes with D^4. So that extra 1mm would give you about 27% more stiffness.

 

I found a reference when searching that I believe answers my question two posts back. Sorry about that. . .

 

Great write up Mr. Chad! I would like to learn more about lower tie bars...eagerly waiting!

 

The strut bar was easiest of all installs. Just remove the cover plates on the black plastic cowl at the base of the windshield this will give you access the last 4 hidden bolt holes you need, reuse the bolts from your current tower to wall brackets, they are removed for the strut bar assembly.

 

bump for the goodies, very informed, i wish i had read this sooner