yup.... rear driver side caliper is leaking brake fluid..... can't really feel the pressure when i step on the brakes.... a shop is charging me $160 (part and labor) to install a new caliper.... or should i just go to autozone and get a remanufactured caliper?? any step-by-step instructions to do this?? thanx

 

I recomend changing BOTH calipers at once... just so both are done and to maintain braking performance. Most repair shops will say the same.

Buying a caliper (or calipers) at autozone would be cheaper... and they are relatively easy to change. You can also rebuild the caliper yourself with a rebuild kit, but its kind of a pain if you dont know what you're doing. The autozone calipers will have a lifetime warranty too, which is nice. The rear calipers are kind of a pain because you have to deal with the ebrake cables as well. If you do all this yourself, pick up a manual as well (good investment if you plan on doing any work to the car yourself). Also, check your pads and rotors, as its a very good time to replace them.

For $160, you should be able to replace BOTH calipers, pads and even the rotors if you do the work yourself.

 

:werd:

 

Even if you know what you are doing, rebuilding a caliper is still a pain, especially getting that square cut seal out and back in, plus the piston itself never wants to get back in with a new seal, even if you lube the heck out of it. Never did it on a Honda caliper, but I did it once to an Izuzu Trooper, but I can only imagine the pain of trying to rotate that piston back in, ergh .

 

just ordered a new caliper from autozone... will be here by tuesday.... i have the Hanes manual, but it doesn't really explain how to bleed the brakes... guess i'll use the search function..

 

What year is your accord?

If it's 90-97 (yes I said that right, 90-97); Rear passenger, then front driver side, then rear driver, then front passenger.

After installing the caliper though, before you start bleeding, I would try to gravity bleed that side on which you replaced the caliper first, basically crack the screw open and wait for fluid to ooze out, once it does, then close it. It just makes it easier to get the air out of the system when you actually move on in the end to your bleed sequence mentioned above. If you in Sacramento, CA let me know and I'll help you out, in fact we can even put it on a lift and make it easier on ourselfs.

 

Interesting...My Chilton manual tells me all I need to know bout bleeding.