Replacing axles..
One of my boots is ripped wide open and I just happen to have a spare set of axles that will fit. They are in mint condition... Anyhow... how do I replace the axles? Do I need any special tools? Tips/tricks? Thanks guys!
haynes and chilton are your friends 
other than that, I hear there's quite a bit of bangin needed to get the cv boots out (assuming thats what 'boot' refers to)
I need to do this, too

other than that, I hear there's quite a bit of bangin needed to get the cv boots out (assuming thats what 'boot' refers to)
I need to do this, too
cx power!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,435
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From: berkeley, ca --> la, ca representin' tha 510&626
chilton is a crappy friend, and helms id your BEST friend when working on ur civic. things u need: 32mm socket, breaker bar, jack, stand, and some elbow grease. a joint seperater is handy too, but not required. i used one b/c i couldnt get the lower arm off with a mallet
I was going to do a DIY on this... I just haven't written it up, but have all the pics.
You'll need a balljoint seperator, nice breaker bar/impact gun, 32 mm socket, new keeper pins and a nice torque wrench.
It's a pretty easy process. I've gotten to where I can do both in about 20 min.
You'll need a balljoint seperator, nice breaker bar/impact gun, 32 mm socket, new keeper pins and a nice torque wrench.
It's a pretty easy process. I've gotten to where I can do both in about 20 min.
What is a breaker bar and a ball joint separator and how much do they run. Pics would help:thumbup: What needs to be torqued?
PS. I found I had an exhaust leak where my header bolted to my cat. HENCE... running rich, popping sound from exhaust. It always looked tight but I added two new bolts and tightened them down real good. SO far so good!!! No more popping sound. I'll ahve to wait to see if I'm still running rich.
PS. I found I had an exhaust leak where my header bolted to my cat. HENCE... running rich, popping sound from exhaust. It always looked tight but I added two new bolts and tightened them down real good. SO far so good!!! No more popping sound. I'll ahve to wait to see if I'm still running rich.
:thumbup:
Breaker bar is a long ratchet without the clicks (that's the best I can do)
Small breaker bar:

Ball joint separator:

The axle bolt will need to be torqued to 130 ft/lbs when you get done and the lower ball joints will need to be torqued to ~40 ft/lbs (I think).
Breaker bar is a long ratchet without the clicks (that's the best I can do)
Small breaker bar:

Ball joint separator:

The axle bolt will need to be torqued to 130 ft/lbs when you get done and the lower ball joints will need to be torqued to ~40 ft/lbs (I think).
Another question... it looks like my stock axles from my 99 civic ex will fit still. DOes anyone know if I am wrong? So basically what I'm trying to ask is if my 99 civic ex acles will fit with a b18c motor in there?
DON'T USE THAT SEPARATOR (Pickle Fork, or whatever you want to call it)... It's really easy to tear the boots on your lower ball joints with it. Of course, if you don't care, new lower ball joints are only $18 ea.
Get a set of Crow's Feet. They're 2-jaw joint separators that let you push the ball-joint's stud out of the fork with a large center-screw. It separates them much faster, and without impact or any other stress on the joint, making it far more likely that you can re-use that part. Plus, it's a whole lot easier than banging on that fork if a joint decides to be stubborn. After I used them once, I don't think I'll ever use a fork again.
Get a set of Crow's Feet. They're 2-jaw joint separators that let you push the ball-joint's stud out of the fork with a large center-screw. It separates them much faster, and without impact or any other stress on the joint, making it far more likely that you can re-use that part. Plus, it's a whole lot easier than banging on that fork if a joint decides to be stubborn. After I used them once, I don't think I'll ever use a fork again.


