Long story dunno if u guys remember my story about running the nitrious and then melting a plugs and not getting compression out of cylinder #3. Running 15.6@86 mph SOHC D16.

Took apart the head today, turned the head upside down and saw the two exhaust valves cracked. I am definitely getting new valves all 16 not just for the two cracked ones.

Priced them at $46 for the intake ones and $46 for the exhaust ones.

My question what would the benefit of getting retainers and springs? (should i replace them or not?) they don't usually go bad w/ nitrious or do they? As for the forged pistons? and connecting rods?

I plan on making this a D block turbo w/ nitrious, i just want to be able to run things safely, taking apart the head is not easy nor fun job. Pieceing it back together is even going to be more fun.
Still consider a port n polish and maybe an overbore with maybe getting the block resleeved.

Price a few things online:

ARP HeadStuds $98
Skunk2 Exhaust Valves $46
Skunk2 Intake Valves $46
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers $175
Skunk2 Racing Valve Springs $276
Arias Forged Racing Pistons $516
Crower Rods $712
Total $1869 (MUCHO DINERO)
They do give free GROUND SHIPPING, :madfawk:

One more thing is it possible to make a d16z6 to run 12 seconds?

 

check out www.ef-1.com
Those guys have some sweet cams and parts for building heads.

 

There is no need to have springs and retainers unless you want to rev higher than the stock redline. If you do rev higher than the redline on stock springs you could end up having floating valves and ruining your valves and pistons due to contact. Oh and if you plan on adding some wilder cams... you should also upgrade your springs and retainers even if you don't rev past the stock redline.
If you decide to keep your stock cams and don't plan on reving too high... save your money and don't get the springs and retainers.

 

:rick:

I first read this and thought it was basement material

:chuckles:

 

On my del sol Si redline is 7200 rpms, i usually rev it to 6800 b4 i shift gears, i don't usually shift past redline, there's no point IMO.
well I already got Skunk2 Racing Valves with +1.00 mm overbore
so I am going to take it to a local machine shop and get a port and polish, open up those valves a little. (any tips would help, thanks). I am planning to go TURBO & NOS, D-Block....definitely need to get forged pistons n rods, and maybe a block guard, oh yeah get the block resleeved also.

 

if you're getting it resleeved you dont need the block guard

 

oh fairly a newb in internals. thanx. just getting my feet wet.

 

head is good.