Anyone run Ground Control Coilovers?
Originally posted by CivicSiRacer
I don't know what my coilovers were since I purchased Koni Yellows with them from GC. I ordered 350f/400 rear springs to induce more oversteer for autocross.
I don't know what my coilovers were since I purchased Koni Yellows with them from GC. I ordered 350f/400 rear springs to induce more oversteer for autocross.
Originally posted by Dimi
I have done some autocrossing before, out in NY when I lived there. Of course not competitive or professional but you know the usual cones setup for a large friendly run. I'm not an expert on it but I can hold my own when on the twisties. Do you think a 375/300 would be a good DD and still compete every now and then in minor autoXing? CivicSiRacer input greatly appreciated...
I have done some autocrossing before, out in NY when I lived there. Of course not competitive or professional but you know the usual cones setup for a large friendly run. I'm not an expert on it but I can hold my own when on the twisties. Do you think a 375/300 would be a good DD and still compete every now and then in minor autoXing? CivicSiRacer input greatly appreciated...
I would suggest 375f/325r or 375f/350r or maybe something a little more tame like 300f/250r or 350f/300r for more comfort
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Originally posted by Dimi
With a 375/325 can the rear whip out for oversteer or can it be held constant around hard turns? CivicSiRacer what rates are you running?
With a 375/325 can the rear whip out for oversteer or can it be held constant around hard turns? CivicSiRacer what rates are you running?
stock susp.) Generally, with a high rear spring rate, you have to get on the gas earlier in order to stabilize the car for a clean turn, which is counter-intuitive to a lot of drivers.He runs 350f/400r, definitely not a noob setup. I run 400/400, which can be pretty challenging at times, plus I think hatches rotate easier than coupes. When I get my sway bars, I might go for something more along the lines of 400f/350r...
Hrmmm, I see. This might cause some different rate changes but I have a sedan. Should I get a tad stiffer spring rates to compensate for the bigger/heavier body of the sedan vs. that of the hatch or coupe? Like 400f/350r?
i dont have GC's but i have coilovers (dropzone). and take it from a person who's been in several cars w/ coilovers and coilover w/ shocks.... just try to save your money for a real coilover setup. you'll be sooooo much happier in the end. i know scrounging up 400 more might seem kinda far away but just try if you can. i had a friend with tokiko illuminas + i duno wut coilovers and once it came time to drop it the amount he wanted to (about 2.5+), the ride was just like mine... bumpy. he eventually opted for some nex suspension he got for like 400 used (:naughty
and his ride feels stock. n his shit is DROPPED.
another friend in his teg with skunk 2 coilovrs and tokiko gas shocks 2.5 in the front and 2 in the rear and...... -----_----- not impressive for the 8 bills or so he payed.
if u just wanna drop it like an inch and a half i guess ur cool but if u want a mean ass drop like 2.5+ look elsewhere for a smooth ride.
and his ride feels stock. n his shit is DROPPED.another friend in his teg with skunk 2 coilovrs and tokiko gas shocks 2.5 in the front and 2 in the rear and...... -----_----- not impressive for the 8 bills or so he payed.
if u just wanna drop it like an inch and a half i guess ur cool but if u want a mean ass drop like 2.5+ look elsewhere for a smooth ride.
Originally posted by Crazy_Phucker
i dont have GC's but i have coilovers (dropzone). and take it from a person who's been in several cars w/ coilovers and coilover w/ shocks.... just try to save your money for a real coilover setup. you'll be sooooo much happier in the end. i know scrounging up 400 more might seem kinda far away but just try if you can. i had a friend with tokiko illuminas + i duno wut coilovers and once it came time to drop it the amount he wanted to (about 2.5+), the ride was just like mine... bumpy. he eventually opted for some nex suspension he got for like 400 used (:naughty
and his ride feels stock. n his shit is DROPPED.
another friend in his teg with skunk 2 coilovrs and tokiko gas shocks 2.5 in the front and 2 in the rear and...... -----_----- not impressive for the 8 bills or so he payed.
if u just wanna drop it like an inch and a half i guess ur cool but if u want a mean ass drop like 2.5+ look elsewhere for a smooth ride.
i dont have GC's but i have coilovers (dropzone). and take it from a person who's been in several cars w/ coilovers and coilover w/ shocks.... just try to save your money for a real coilover setup. you'll be sooooo much happier in the end. i know scrounging up 400 more might seem kinda far away but just try if you can. i had a friend with tokiko illuminas + i duno wut coilovers and once it came time to drop it the amount he wanted to (about 2.5+), the ride was just like mine... bumpy. he eventually opted for some nex suspension he got for like 400 used (:naughty
and his ride feels stock. n his shit is DROPPED.another friend in his teg with skunk 2 coilovrs and tokiko gas shocks 2.5 in the front and 2 in the rear and...... -----_----- not impressive for the 8 bills or so he payed.
if u just wanna drop it like an inch and a half i guess ur cool but if u want a mean ass drop like 2.5+ look elsewhere for a smooth ride.
1. Servicability-if anything is bent or broken, you only need to replace one little part, with readily available parts. W/ a real c/o you'd have to send the whole thing off to get repaired (in cases, even to japan
) a process that would take weeks, if not months.2. Room for customization. If you decide you want to change spring rates, its just a phone call away, and shipping from CA means, you can get your springs next day.
3. Choice of Shocks. You can run whatever shocks fit your needs or your budget. You can save $$ and go with an OK shock, or you can spend $$ and go w/ konis and have a c/o that meets or exceeds the performance of almost any real c/o.
4. Need I mention it? Price.
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