A few weeks back I did a tune-up. changed plugs, wires..etc.. btw it's a '98 Civic LX. Seems that after the tune-up my car's slower than it used to be.

Not only that.. when I did the tune-up, I replaced my driverside motor mount cause the old one was all cracked. I had a problem with the motor mount, and now that I've replaced it.. the problem still seems to be there. Before I replaced the mount, whenever I shifted into drive (Automatic) the whole car just shook. After replacing the mount it was fine for a bit.. but sometimes when I put the pedal down the car shakes a bit just like before.

Another thing I'm worried about is the idle, my car seems to idle at about 500rpm, isn't it suppose to iddle at around 700? could it be the plugs weren't torqued well enough?

 

did you use oem parts or aftermarket?

if you used aftermarket, go down to the dealer and buy oem. for a non-modified engine, they reallly are the best parts - especially the wires, i've seen a few cars come in here with poor running engines, all they needed was the aftermarket crap they put on removed and replaced with oem to fix it.

 

:werd: try using NGK plugs and wires if you haven't

 

Every part I put into my car was OEM
NGK wires, NGK plugs, OEM motor mount
the only thing that wasn't OEM was the motor oil, doubt that's the problem.

 

did you do cap & rotor as well?

 

check your wires and plugs again to make sure.:dunno:

 

Yep did the cap & rotor

I bought the parts from the dealer myself

parts that aren't oem I got from the shop, Alternator belt, power steering belt, distributor cap & rotor.

the cap I think is OEM, I asked the shop for it.

 

maybe the plugs aren't grounding to the head well enough? could there be some dirt/grease/crap in the plug tubes?

make sure the rotor isn't cracked anywhere, also check the wires going to the coil inside the distributor to see if anything has come loose.

 

I'll check the wires and cap tomorrow.

but I don't think that's what's causing the car's vibration when shifting into gear.

 

could be, actually. you mentioned a low idle rpm...a poorly running engine can idle low, and when you add the load of the torque converter when drive is engaged, it could pull the engine idle low enough to cause vibration as the car nears the point of stalling.