timing gun choice???
i know there are many types of timing guns and the ones that i am looking to get are those that have the digital RPM meter display. however, i couldn't find any one that i like from pepboys. so are there any suggestions?
also, when you flash the timing belt and see the lines... how do you know how many degrees it is being advanced or retarded? perhaps if someone can show me a site on how a timing gun works.. that would be great.
if i were to adjust my own timing belt... what tools would i need? and any "how to" sites on that as well? thanks.
also, when you flash the timing belt and see the lines... how do you know how many degrees it is being advanced or retarded? perhaps if someone can show me a site on how a timing gun works.. that would be great.
if i were to adjust my own timing belt... what tools would i need? and any "how to" sites on that as well? thanks.
Here's the one I have.
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00921023000
It's a craftsman and I like it. They have 2, one that has an advance on it and that doesn't (that's the one that does). You really can't see in the picutre, but on the back of that light, there is a small knob that you turn to advance or retard the timing. If you don't have the knob, you just have to use the provided markings from the OE manufacturer.
How a timing light works is by attaching to the #1 spark plug wire and flashing when a spark goes through it. You aim the gun down at the crank pully on the driver side of the engine. There are three marks on the pully like this | | | and a small marker built into the timing belt cover. Factory advance is 16 degrees (for a B18C1 I believe, don't quote me, it's all really relative), so if the middle marker on the crank pulley and the one on the cover line up, your right on the money. Honda provides a 2 degree advance and retard on the crank pulley (the other two |). To advance the ignition, you loosen the distriubtor bolts and rotate the distributor. I believe forward (towards the front) is advance and back towards the firewall is retard, but I can't remember for sure). Also, the service manaual also recommends jumping the computer into diagnostic mode (like you would to check for a code) before advancing the ignition. I've also been told that's not nessicary, but it take 25 seconds so I'd do it. If you have a timing lights with the knob, you can set it for 2 degree's advance and then just line up the center markers again (nessicary if the crank pulley only has 1). Seeya.
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00921023000
It's a craftsman and I like it. They have 2, one that has an advance on it and that doesn't (that's the one that does). You really can't see in the picutre, but on the back of that light, there is a small knob that you turn to advance or retard the timing. If you don't have the knob, you just have to use the provided markings from the OE manufacturer.
How a timing light works is by attaching to the #1 spark plug wire and flashing when a spark goes through it. You aim the gun down at the crank pully on the driver side of the engine. There are three marks on the pully like this | | | and a small marker built into the timing belt cover. Factory advance is 16 degrees (for a B18C1 I believe, don't quote me, it's all really relative), so if the middle marker on the crank pulley and the one on the cover line up, your right on the money. Honda provides a 2 degree advance and retard on the crank pulley (the other two |). To advance the ignition, you loosen the distriubtor bolts and rotate the distributor. I believe forward (towards the front) is advance and back towards the firewall is retard, but I can't remember for sure). Also, the service manaual also recommends jumping the computer into diagnostic mode (like you would to check for a code) before advancing the ignition. I've also been told that's not nessicary, but it take 25 seconds so I'd do it. If you have a timing lights with the knob, you can set it for 2 degree's advance and then just line up the center markers again (nessicary if the crank pulley only has 1). Seeya.
__________________
Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Originally posted by Andy
Here's the one I have.
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00921023000
It's a craftsman and I like it. They have 2, one that has an advance on it and that doesn't (that's the one that does). You really can't see in the picutre, but on the back of that light, there is a small knob that you turn to advance or retard the timing. If you don't have the knob, you just have to use the provided markings from the OE manufacturer.
How a timing light works is by attaching to the #1 spark plug wire and flashing when a spark goes through it. You aim the gun down at the crank pully on the driver side of the engine. There are three marks on the pully like this | | | and a small marker built into the timing belt cover. Factory advance is 16 degrees (for a B18C1 I believe, don't quote me, it's all really relative), so if the middle marker on the crank pulley and the one on the cover line up, your right on the money. Honda provides a 2 degree advance and retard on the crank pulley (the other two |). To advance the ignition, you loosen the distriubtor bolts and rotate the distributor. I believe forward (towards the front) is advance and back towards the firewall is retard, but I can't remember for sure). Also, the service manaual also recommends jumping the computer into diagnostic mode (like you would to check for a code) before advancing the ignition. I've also been told that's not nessicary, but it take 25 seconds so I'd do it. If you have a timing lights with the knob, you can set it for 2 degree's advance and then just line up the center markers again (nessicary if the crank pulley only has 1). Seeya.
Here's the one I have.
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00921023000
It's a craftsman and I like it. They have 2, one that has an advance on it and that doesn't (that's the one that does). You really can't see in the picutre, but on the back of that light, there is a small knob that you turn to advance or retard the timing. If you don't have the knob, you just have to use the provided markings from the OE manufacturer.
How a timing light works is by attaching to the #1 spark plug wire and flashing when a spark goes through it. You aim the gun down at the crank pully on the driver side of the engine. There are three marks on the pully like this | | | and a small marker built into the timing belt cover. Factory advance is 16 degrees (for a B18C1 I believe, don't quote me, it's all really relative), so if the middle marker on the crank pulley and the one on the cover line up, your right on the money. Honda provides a 2 degree advance and retard on the crank pulley (the other two |). To advance the ignition, you loosen the distriubtor bolts and rotate the distributor. I believe forward (towards the front) is advance and back towards the firewall is retard, but I can't remember for sure). Also, the service manaual also recommends jumping the computer into diagnostic mode (like you would to check for a code) before advancing the ignition. I've also been told that's not nessicary, but it take 25 seconds so I'd do it. If you have a timing lights with the knob, you can set it for 2 degree's advance and then just line up the center markers again (nessicary if the crank pulley only has 1). Seeya.
Originally posted by SleeperCivicEX
I had one made from MATCO tools that I used when I was a Volvo tech. It had timing advance and retard with a digital readout as well. Even though it was $300, it was definitely worth it.
I had one made from MATCO tools that I used when I was a Volvo tech. It had timing advance and retard with a digital readout as well. Even though it was $300, it was definitely worth it.


