vtecfed

I have decided to install a B18C1 into my 93 hb dx. I have plenty of tools and friend to help. When I do it I want to be ready for any problems I might come across. Any help with prior experiance and web sites with pics would be great.
My research so far has led me to believe that this is a "direct" bolt in application with(no engine mount relocation) and no welding, right?
I figure that wiring will be my biggest challenge but I am going to do this myself so lend me some support.:thumbup: :

SpeedRacerEX-R

What year swap are you running?

vtecfed

I havent got the motor yet I want to make sure I do my research first before I buy

J'silverHb

Si mounts wouldent be a bad idea

westcoaststyle

There has been an arguement about the mounts, but I was told and used with perfect success, all GSR mounts except for the upper tranny and AC (cause I wanted to keep my AC unit).

I don't believe that your car has AC, so you will need to get the B-series mount for that.

Also, check out www.hybridgarage.com for info on the wiring. www.c-speedracing.com did a DIY on the B18C1 in a 5th gen coupe, but it has a couple of problems (with the wiring).

I recommend having the tranny bolted to the block BEFORE dropping it into the car. Also, don't have any mounts on the motor; put them on once you have it hanging in the engine bay.

You will also need to get the throttle cable bracket for a GSR. The civic already has the hole in the firewall, you just have to pop off the little plastic cover. The bracket is something like $6 from Honda.

that's really about it.. you should already know about the shift linkage and ECU.... just be sure that youo do the wiring correctly.

HIH

fish

here is a suggestion too change out all of the general maintainance parts while the motor is out ie valve cover seal plugs wires cap and rotor timing belt water pump tensionerpully CLUTCH! (i wish i would of ) not only is it cheaper its easier. and you can start to buy all of that now so you only spend 50 her or 60 there instead of buying it all at once right after you buy your motor yeah you would go broke IMO

westcoaststyle

cables, rotor, cap and that other stuff isn't necessary cause it's so easy to get to when the motor's in the car. Doing the timing belt and that kind of stuff (clutch/flywheel) would be beneficial though. I got carried away and just about reaplaced everything so....

Andy

A couple of things to watch out for. Honda axle nuts are 32mm, a socket most garages don't have (1 1/4" inch will work in a pinch, but go buy a 32). They are also torqued to 132 ft/lbs so your going to need a strong ass breaker bar (get one you can take back after it bends) or a big impact gun (most 1/2" guns won't do it!). Some people take their car to a garage and have them break the axle nuts with a 1" gun and just tighen them down with a wrench and drive home before the swap. I'd recommend new one's from Honda too, I think $2-$4 a piece.

Civic shift linkage is held by a small pin that goes through a bar sticking out of the tranny. It's not hard to figure out but it's a real pain in the ass to get loose sometimes. I recommend a small bolt in a pair of vice grips and a large hammer. A lot of swearing seems to help too (just hard to swing laying on your back with no room).

To get the axles out, you have to loosen the lower ball joint to lift the hub away and get the end of the axle out. What I recommend, remove the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut but don't remove it, just twist it down a few turns. Place a jack on the bottom of the rotor and jack it up to load the suspension. Then take a hammer and pound the side of the LCA where the ball joint goes through. The jack puts pressure on it and vibration will pop it loose without ever putting pressure on the ball joint or it's boot.

A couple of quick ones, when removing or lowering the engine into place, set up the chains so the motors tiltled like / with the tranny hanging down. Makes it easier to get the motor to slide under the frame rail and then lower into place. Also, on the back of the throttle body there's a TPS sensor. Unplug the sensor before dropping the motor in. It's real easy to bash off something and break the connection point. If it's unpluged, the actual harness isn't damaged and you can usually plug it back in it will work (just don't forget). Good luck with it! Seeya.

fish

well yeah it was more of a FYI to replace that stuff thats why i wrote CLUTH! in caps and am still like that i didnt do when it was out. but its all good:thumbup:

white_n_slow

Since ima probably do the B20, I'll HAVE to get the clutch and flywheel before hand (not many CRV's with a manual, and I'm not sure it'd even work if it did). Kinda a pain, but I'll probably be better off anyway.

Speaking of preventative maintanence, how much does a new water pump cost?