Valve ajustment
#1
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
Valve ajustment
Hey all.
I finally bought a torque wrench, and now I want to do a valve adjustment on my D16Y7. I've heard some valve noise, and from what I understand, it's generally a good idea to adjust the valves every 100,000 miles or so.
So I just want to make sure that I have down the right steps. If I have anything wrong here, please correct me.
1: Remove spark plugs
2: Remove valve cover
3: Take off drivers side front wheel
4: Turn crank manually (I think it's a 19mm bolt)
5: Get #1 to TDC.
6: Use feeler gauge to adjust valves correctly: .007 for intake and .009 for exhaust.
7: Torque bolt holding valve screw to 11lbs.
8: Move onto next cylinder according to firing order.
9: Replace valve cover
10: Replace spark plugs.
Just remembered I had a few questions: How do I get a cylinder to TDC? And does anyone know the firing order on a D16Y7? (I think it's 1-4-3-2)
I finally bought a torque wrench, and now I want to do a valve adjustment on my D16Y7. I've heard some valve noise, and from what I understand, it's generally a good idea to adjust the valves every 100,000 miles or so.
So I just want to make sure that I have down the right steps. If I have anything wrong here, please correct me.
1: Remove spark plugs
2: Remove valve cover
3: Take off drivers side front wheel
4: Turn crank manually (I think it's a 19mm bolt)
5: Get #1 to TDC.
6: Use feeler gauge to adjust valves correctly: .007 for intake and .009 for exhaust.
7: Torque bolt holding valve screw to 11lbs.
8: Move onto next cylinder according to firing order.
9: Replace valve cover
10: Replace spark plugs.
Just remembered I had a few questions: How do I get a cylinder to TDC? And does anyone know the firing order on a D16Y7? (I think it's 1-4-3-2)
#2
I find that if you stick a stiff wire like a coat hanger down the sparkplug hole, you can visually see when the cylinder reaches TDC.
Download the service manual for your car, makes stuff like this a breeze!
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Download the service manual for your car, makes stuff like this a breeze!
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
#3
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There are notches on your crank pulley, they have to line up with the notches on your block. You really should get the manual in order to identify the notches correctly, because there are a few of them and you really dont want to mess up when doing the valve lash.
#4
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
I thought that getting to TDC was fairly easy? isn't it where I would watch the valves, and then when the intake and exhaust are both closed, the cylinder is at TDC?
#5
That will happen at more than one point in the cycle though, TDC is when the piston in question is at the very top of it's cycle, after the intake valves close, and before the exhaust valves open.
#9
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
OK, I'm working on my valve adjustment as we speak (or type). I have a few questions:
When using the feeler gauge to determine the proper gap, do I tighten the screw until it just hits the gauge? Or in other words, when the gauge can move freely? Or do I tighten the screw down until it's really hard to move the feeler gauge?
Also, anyone know what the torque ratings are on the valve cover for a D16Y7?
Thanks
When using the feeler gauge to determine the proper gap, do I tighten the screw until it just hits the gauge? Or in other words, when the gauge can move freely? Or do I tighten the screw down until it's really hard to move the feeler gauge?
Also, anyone know what the torque ratings are on the valve cover for a D16Y7?
Thanks
#10
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You want the feeler gauge to move freely but not so freely that you hav play. basically you want to feel it drag smoothly without much force. I believe the tourque on the valve cover is 13 lbs but im not sure.