Rear caliper replacement
Thread Starter
my 2 cense
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 158
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From: greater philly
Rear caliper replacement
My left rear rotor is worn uneven. There is 3/4 inch of rust on the outer radius because the pad is not contacting. I think the caliper is bad. I just replaced the rotors and pads within the last year also. Wanna fix this before my pad and rotor goes too far gone. Is there anything difficult about replacing a rear caliper on disk brakes? Should just be remove and replace then bleed right?
Boats n hoes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 395
Likes: 1
From: Slippery Rock, PA
Pretty easy. Remove pads, remove 2 bolts holding on caliper, remove caliper, replace with new caliper, torque bolts holding on caliper to 90lbs(I may be wrong here on the exact torque specs). Attach brake lines, bleed brake system.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
I have seen this happen before; make sure your piston has a good seal on the caliper with no cracks breaks or rubber bushing damage. I was able to get a rebuilt caliper cheap at a autoparts store. cheaper than rebuilding it myself
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
wrong fix!
If you are getting SOME pad contact, the calper is okay. If you get rust everywhere, the caliper could be seized. If its dragging and the car feels like its locked, it could be seizing as well. But if you are getting partial contact, take the caliper off with two bolts and push the pedal. watch it move out, and the caliper is good. The problem is that the pad and rotor are not getting correct contact. Either the pad is worn unevenly, or the rotor is warped.
here is a common problem. The rear pad has a "notch" like a little cylinder on it. The piston has a + shape, and that notch goes into the piston's +. The + is recessed, and when you rotate the piston (you can use a metal file or large screwdriver rather than renting the OEM tool), it simply has to be perpendicular, meaning the + has to point up and sideways, so not like an X. if the piston was turned during a brake job and on the wrong way, the pad's notch won't sit in it, and thus will contact at a severe angle. Eventually this will wear the other side of the disc too. So check that, as that is more common than a seizing caliper.
If you are getting SOME pad contact, the calper is okay. If you get rust everywhere, the caliper could be seized. If its dragging and the car feels like its locked, it could be seizing as well. But if you are getting partial contact, take the caliper off with two bolts and push the pedal. watch it move out, and the caliper is good. The problem is that the pad and rotor are not getting correct contact. Either the pad is worn unevenly, or the rotor is warped.
here is a common problem. The rear pad has a "notch" like a little cylinder on it. The piston has a + shape, and that notch goes into the piston's +. The + is recessed, and when you rotate the piston (you can use a metal file or large screwdriver rather than renting the OEM tool), it simply has to be perpendicular, meaning the + has to point up and sideways, so not like an X. if the piston was turned during a brake job and on the wrong way, the pad's notch won't sit in it, and thus will contact at a severe angle. Eventually this will wear the other side of the disc too. So check that, as that is more common than a seizing caliper.