Ultimate Turbo Setup
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 182
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From: TN
Ultimate Turbo Setup
You have $10k.. your car is a light weight civic... (92-95 hatch or 96-98 coupe) ditch the stock motor.. take the $10k and build the best turbo motor.. what kind of motor would you get?? and what turbo?.. and how much boost could your push and what kind of power would you expect to make?? B20vtec, lsvtec, b18, b16, h22a, etc.. this is my summer project car and i need ideas to be the ultimate street turbo sleeper setup.. ?
Taylor
Taylor
I hate you too
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Racine, WI
This is a post I made a few weeks ago, go to engine tech and do a search. Heres what I believe to be the ultimate street setup.You said you wanted reliable, so LS/VTEC is almost out of the question. I could ad why, but this article sums up my feelings about it.http://www.distributedworks.com/ind...rce/lsvtec.html
Now if you want to do this right and arent a fan of rebuilding your entire block, heres a pretty nice streetable setup, and It'll give you way more then 300 to the wheels.First start with USDM GSR block. Hers a list from the bottom up:
Stock Crank- Machine work, balance, polish. Might not want to knife edge it cuase under boost the structural integrity will be gone.
Rods- Eagle's are good, Crowers better. You will be able to get away with Eagles just fine.
Pistons- 82mm JE 9:1 forged. Good bore, good piston, nuff said
Block- resleeve with Golden Eagle sleeves and block guard. this is gonna be the key part. We have a open deck design were working with so we NEED to strengthen it.
Head- entire valve train needs to be replaced. I went with Skunk 2, just fine for me. Stock cams, but with adj. gears. Port it, port match the manifold, three angle valve job, polish the combustion chambers. Go with a skunk 2 or ITR intake manifold, better flow.
Turbo- Get a custom kit made. Drag blows, ever since last year their parts have been made in Taiwan to save them money. Find someone to make a exhaust manifold and down pipe. We sell maniflod, downpipe and Turbonetics turbo for round $1,700.
Buyt the rest of the pieces seperate. IT may be a little more money, but you have exactly what you need and want.
For the turbo itself, go with a T4, with stage 3 wheel, with a 50 trim and 63AR hot side. It will be very streetable, and make really good power throughout the range.
Fuel- If you must save money, go with a Vortech fully adj. fuel system, dont get the 12:1 it wont be adequit. Get an S-AFC to tune that. An MSD ignition with the boost retard is gonna be a good thing too. If you can afford it the AEM stand alone will be the best computor to go with, but not everyone has money like that. For injectors go with 550 cc, they flow 42% better tehn 440 and are only a little bit more money.
This is a lot of stuff. IF you can afford it, great, cause this is the right way to turboa HOnda. If you cant, I suggest saving your money so you dont spend it twice when you have to rebuild your blown, stock motor. As far as boost goes, with everything BUT the AEM computor, you could run 14 psi everyday and almost make your goal. If you get rid of the Vortech and S-AFC and replace it with the AEM, you could run 18-20 pounds no problem. Just find someone to tune it and I could guarentee close to 400 hp at the wheels, with 93 octane.
good luck
p.s. Dont forget a missing link. It tricks your computor to think everything is ok. When you r engine reads preassure at greater then 11 lbs. it throws a code, this just trickes it.
Now if you want to do this right and arent a fan of rebuilding your entire block, heres a pretty nice streetable setup, and It'll give you way more then 300 to the wheels.First start with USDM GSR block. Hers a list from the bottom up:
Stock Crank- Machine work, balance, polish. Might not want to knife edge it cuase under boost the structural integrity will be gone.
Rods- Eagle's are good, Crowers better. You will be able to get away with Eagles just fine.
Pistons- 82mm JE 9:1 forged. Good bore, good piston, nuff said
Block- resleeve with Golden Eagle sleeves and block guard. this is gonna be the key part. We have a open deck design were working with so we NEED to strengthen it.
Head- entire valve train needs to be replaced. I went with Skunk 2, just fine for me. Stock cams, but with adj. gears. Port it, port match the manifold, three angle valve job, polish the combustion chambers. Go with a skunk 2 or ITR intake manifold, better flow.
Turbo- Get a custom kit made. Drag blows, ever since last year their parts have been made in Taiwan to save them money. Find someone to make a exhaust manifold and down pipe. We sell maniflod, downpipe and Turbonetics turbo for round $1,700.
Buyt the rest of the pieces seperate. IT may be a little more money, but you have exactly what you need and want.
For the turbo itself, go with a T4, with stage 3 wheel, with a 50 trim and 63AR hot side. It will be very streetable, and make really good power throughout the range.
Fuel- If you must save money, go with a Vortech fully adj. fuel system, dont get the 12:1 it wont be adequit. Get an S-AFC to tune that. An MSD ignition with the boost retard is gonna be a good thing too. If you can afford it the AEM stand alone will be the best computor to go with, but not everyone has money like that. For injectors go with 550 cc, they flow 42% better tehn 440 and are only a little bit more money.
This is a lot of stuff. IF you can afford it, great, cause this is the right way to turboa HOnda. If you cant, I suggest saving your money so you dont spend it twice when you have to rebuild your blown, stock motor. As far as boost goes, with everything BUT the AEM computor, you could run 14 psi everyday and almost make your goal. If you get rid of the Vortech and S-AFC and replace it with the AEM, you could run 18-20 pounds no problem. Just find someone to tune it and I could guarentee close to 400 hp at the wheels, with 93 octane.
good luck
p.s. Dont forget a missing link. It tricks your computor to think everything is ok. When you r engine reads preassure at greater then 11 lbs. it throws a code, this just trickes it.
Eater of Rice
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE
B18C with some turbo, depending on the use, track, street, autox. Resleeve the cylinder walls,upgrade rods, pistons, valves, upgrade fuel pump, injectors, upgrade exhaust to full 3 inches mandrel bent. Run AEM EMS, dyno tune that biatch.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
From: tx
sleeved B18 block bored 20 over with eagle rods, je pistons 9:8 comp. head work, all new valvetrain so you can handle 9K + rpm. as for the turbo, go for a 60-1 garret turbo and all your piping requirements, standalone ECU, 720cc injectors, race header, 3" exh all the way out...just a start :thumbup:
I hate you too
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Racine, WI
If you are trying to keep the car streetable, keep your compression at 9:1 and stay away from a huge turbo. I dont under stand your posts 4-banging
You said he should run a 60-1 Garret turbo and 10:1 comp pistons, so what would be the point of NOT being able to run the boost that turbo is capable of by running a higher comp. piston. Second, he says he wants to run it on the street. So that turbo wont make power until very high in the power band. and by the time you are to full boost, you have to shift. Not to be a dick or anything but I just dont see what you are trying to do. Then you said he should run a race header, with a turbo:slap: You use an exhaust manifold and downpipe. As for the injectors, that is HUGE, WAY to big for the street, let alone a streetdriven 4 cylinder. We have a customer with a fully built 4G63T Galant, with a super 16G. He also has 550 cc injectors, and has bad fuel cut. This isnt because there is too little fuel, its cause theres way too MUCH fuel. It tells the computor teh combustion chamer is flooded, and then immediately leans it out. Those 720's are too big, and not only that, have fun filling up your tank every 150 miles. If you have reasons for your suggestions, please enlighten me.
Now, lets take the Volkswagon 1.8 liter turbo into consideration: in order for it to run a stock compression of 9:5:1, it needs three intake and two large exhaust valves to flow enough air for that high of compression with boost. For our heads to handle that much compression and boost setup, we would need a full race port, intake manifold, port matching, five angle valve job and port match of the exhaust manifold. This all sounds easy enough, BUT, the driveability and durability will be taken away when you port SOOO big, and give it a valve job to that extent. With a five angle, you get better flow then a three, but you shorten the life of your valve seals AND valves, which isnt too much fun to replace all the time. Even after doing all this, it still wont add up to the amount of flow you need to push boost and comp.
If you need any other suggestions, let me know
You said he should run a 60-1 Garret turbo and 10:1 comp pistons, so what would be the point of NOT being able to run the boost that turbo is capable of by running a higher comp. piston. Second, he says he wants to run it on the street. So that turbo wont make power until very high in the power band. and by the time you are to full boost, you have to shift. Not to be a dick or anything but I just dont see what you are trying to do. Then you said he should run a race header, with a turbo:slap: You use an exhaust manifold and downpipe. As for the injectors, that is HUGE, WAY to big for the street, let alone a streetdriven 4 cylinder. We have a customer with a fully built 4G63T Galant, with a super 16G. He also has 550 cc injectors, and has bad fuel cut. This isnt because there is too little fuel, its cause theres way too MUCH fuel. It tells the computor teh combustion chamer is flooded, and then immediately leans it out. Those 720's are too big, and not only that, have fun filling up your tank every 150 miles. If you have reasons for your suggestions, please enlighten me.Now, lets take the Volkswagon 1.8 liter turbo into consideration: in order for it to run a stock compression of 9:5:1, it needs three intake and two large exhaust valves to flow enough air for that high of compression with boost. For our heads to handle that much compression and boost setup, we would need a full race port, intake manifold, port matching, five angle valve job and port match of the exhaust manifold. This all sounds easy enough, BUT, the driveability and durability will be taken away when you port SOOO big, and give it a valve job to that extent. With a five angle, you get better flow then a three, but you shorten the life of your valve seals AND valves, which isnt too much fun to replace all the time. Even after doing all this, it still wont add up to the amount of flow you need to push boost and comp.
If you need any other suggestions, let me know
