TwilightX

Aight, you guys have always been a big help and I wanted to get a straight answer on a couple things (Engine Tech is a bit slow so I figured this would be a better place). Here goes, sorry if it's a tall order, but it might be a good thread for a future DIY for all these questions in the same place:

Timing belt
1. What full list of parts do I need to do this (aside from belt and water pump)?

2. Does anyone have a link to a DIY on replacing a timing belt/water pump or can explain this out (pics are welcome)

3. How much does it cost vs. how much will the dealership ream me for?

I'm gearing up to do this for my car since I'm up to 80K and might have a buddy of mine do it, but if I can do it I'd like to. I'm not very experienced, but from the looks of it, it's a 3 hour job from the search I ran on timing belts...

Thanks for any help - and if anyone's in the Boston area that has done this before and can show me the ropes, that would be even better.

T-X

westcoaststyle

Exhaust manifold gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Head gasket
Valve Cover seal
Spark Plug seals (4)

I JUST did this.. I should have done a DIY

You will pay a lot in labor. It took me about 3 hours to do the whole thing. The hardest parts will be getting the crank bolt off (torqued at 120ft/lbs+) and getting the timing belt back on right.

You really need to know what you're doing to do this right... you will NEED A MANUAL!!!!

I'd help you out, but... I'm in AL..

TwilightX

lol s'aight west coast...I was willing to treat for lunch, but a flight ticket is a little excessive lol

Anyone else have more info? Also what equipment would I need?

dantastic

i just got all the parts and let my mechanic do it.... he only charged $120 for installing timing and balancer belts, water pump, cam gear, and pullies.

is it necessary to change the head gasket at the same time u do the timing belt???

19.3secS2K

probably not, but I see no harm. I mean, you're in there anyways, why not replace it?

TwilightX

Dang...I just got a quote from my Honda dealership and they placed the job at 526.88 - parts come out to be 172.92. I'm definitely sure I can beat their parts prices...

Timing belt: 51.00
Water pump: 75.05
Head Gasket 10.45
Radiator Coolant: 12.95
Alternator Belt: 10.08
Compressor Belt: 13.19

Funny enough, they didn't include the belt tensioner...I'm assuming that it would be good to replace that too while I'm in there right?

I checked www.inlinefour.com and they have an OEM kit that includes the belt, tensioner, and water pump for like 130.00, but I think I can do even better ordering separately with www.hparts.com. Labor alone through my dealership was 330.00!

Anyone else with suggestions? Any bolts I'll need and such?

ryewdedyet

**Before you order or get the parts you might want to look at your oil pan gasket and inspect the oil pan gasket for oil leaks. Pay close attention around the crank pulley area for high oil leaks 'cause if its oil then you might need to replace your crank seal.

To do a T. Belt/waterpump job you'll need these parts:
1) O.E. Honda T.Belt 'cause aftermarket will sometimes be a little shorter or longer.
2) While you're at the dealership, get the waterpump too. Believe it or not, O.E. is more often times better that aftermarket.
3) Valve cover gasket
4) Box of brake cleaner not carb cleaner to clean the tensioner and around the timing gear. Don't forget to clean both of the timing covers.
5) coolant
6) anti-sieze (you'll need to use anti-sieze on the waterpump bolts before re-installation)
7) course sandpaper or even better a 90 degree die angle grinder with a sanding disk. You'll need to make sure that there are no coolant crust around the waterpump mating area.
8) Hondabond for the lower timing belt cover. You'll need to put dabs of Hondabond in the lower timing cover to prevent the rubber gasket from moving around during reinstallation. When installing the valve cover gasket be sure to also put dabs of Hondabond on the sharp edges of the gasket. There will be square shaped pads to put Hondabond.
9) Alternator belt, P/S belt, and A/C belt. You might as well replace these while you're at it 'cause you'll be removing these too.

Here are the tools that you're going to need:
1) 1/2" drive impact gun prefably one with 600 lb of torque
2) 17mm deep impact socket for the crank bolt and lug nuts
3) If you're going to do loosen the crank bolt by hand, you'll need a crank pulley holder, a 1/2" extension, a very long 1/2" breaker bar, and a hallow pipe to be used at the end of the breaker bar. The hallow pipe will be your cheater bar for more leverage.
4) 1/4" drive small socket
5) 1/4" drive 1 inch long wobble extension. You'll need this to remove the timing cover bolts
6) a 20mm feeler gauge for the intake valve lash adjustment
7) a 25mm feeler gauge for the exhaust valve lash adjustment
8) a long prybar for prying back the alternator. You'll also need to use the handle to bang on the older waterpump to get it moving a little. If you're going to use it to pry the waterpump off, be very carefule not to make a notch on the engine block.
9) a 17mm, 14mm 12mm ratcheting wrench prefably the Matco ones 'cause they're longer that Craftsman's or Gearwrench's. You'll need these ratcheting wrenchs for the alt, a/c tensioner, and p/s pump pivot screw.
10) a 3/8" drive ratchet with a long handle with a 14mm 3/8" drive shallow socket. You'll need this for loosening the tensioner. And again towards the re-installation to tighten up the tensioner bolt.
11) a 3" inch long 3/8" drive extension with a 3/8" drive 10mm shallow socket. You'll need this along with the 3/8" drive ratchet to do the final step, which is valve lash adjustment.
12) an 18" inch or longer 1/2" drive extension. You'll need this inconjuction with the 1/2" drive break bar to do the valve lash adjustment
13) a 1/2" drive torque wrench or a torque stick to properly torque back the lug nuts. If you're going to use a torque wrench set it to 80 ft lb.
14) timing light to verify that you didn't a cam gear tooth. Causing the timing to be either retarded or advanced.

***If you needed to replace your crank seal you'll need these additional tools:
1) a long pry hook to pull the crank seal
2) lubricate to be sprayed on the crank seal for easy removal
3) a crank seal driver to even install the crank seal back on

Besure to add tension to the T.Belt when you're tightening the tensioner or else it'll jump a tooth or two. Then the timing will be off. You can add tension by pretending to rotate the engine using the 1/2" drive extension, 1/2" drive breaker bar, and the 1/2" drive 17mm deep impact socket.

Or you can bring it to the dealership and pay probably $600. Hope this was helpful.

I almost forgot to mention that you'll need a coolant tray to catch all of the coolant that's going to gush out when you remove the original waterpump.

TwilightX

Damn, that was pretty comprehensive on the list of tools...thanks man! That helps a lot...:thumbup: