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'92 DX Coupe Won't Start/Crank

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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 03:14 PM
  #11  
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Take the starter out and go to auto zone and have them test it.
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 03:35 PM
  #12  
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Originally posted by 96extec
Take the starter out and go to auto zone and have them test it.
That doesn't tell you much.

On my sister's Corolla we did that and they said the starter was good. Well, we bought a rebuilt starter and then the Corolla has no problems now.
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 04:08 PM
  #13  
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Originally posted by brtecson
have you ever accidentally put the key in the 'start' position while the car is running? if yes, then does it make that same k.r.r.r.r.r.r.r.r.r. sound? if yes, its the starter.

hope this helps, idk if this is the high pitched grinding sound that youre talking about
Yah, that's pretty much what it sounds like. Looks like I'll be breaking out the manual again. Hope the starter isn't too difficult to r&r.
Thanks for all the replies, everyone! I'll keep you posted.
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 04:39 PM
  #14  
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Starter is super easy to get out...

Only 2 bolts and a couple wires to disconnect.
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 08:10 AM
  #15  
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Originally posted by westcoaststyle
Starter is super easy to get out...

Only 2 bolts and a couple wires to disconnect.
Yup, sure enough, got the manual out and was glad to see how easy it will be to remove.
Time to make some calls to get pricing...
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Old Jan 20, 2003 | 07:46 AM
  #16  
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Update:
Car is still not starting... argh.
Swapped the starter with a used/reman'd one. No dice. It was only $35, so no big deal.
Tested the igniter (ICM) per instructions in the Haynes manual. One of the checks failed (no voltage on one of the pins). Bit the bullet and picked up a new one for $57. Installed it. Car still wouldn't start. Performed the check on the new unit and it, too, failed the same test! Doing some more digging on the web last night and turns out the check mentioned in the Haynes is a little bit off! The igniter actually has to be out of the distributor for there to be voltage showing on that pin. Long-story-short, I wasted $57 since electrical items absolutely cannot be returned.
Where I'm at now is suspecting the ignition coil as mentioned earlier. That is, it failed one of the checks spelled out in the manual.
The resistance between the two main coils (A & B) is _supposed_ to be .6 to .8 ohms. Mine's showing a dead short.
Time to check prices again, but I'm getting wary about dropping more $$ on electrical parts that can't be returned.
The saga continues...
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Old Jan 20, 2003 | 08:21 AM
  #17  
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Check for spark. Check for fuel. Pull spark plugs, if fouled, then car wont start.
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Old Jan 27, 2003 | 11:09 AM
  #18  
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Update:
Car is now running again...
Turned out the replacement starter I put in was also bad. Swapped in a second one and after much fenagling the car started. Took a while to crank, but it started up with a white cloud of smoke coming out the exhaust. Ran rough for a little bit but then settled back down. It's been sitting and cranking off-and-on for a couple of weeks, so the smoke and rough running didn't suprirse me. Let it warm up for a bit and took it for a spin. No drama. Shut the car down and it started back up w/o any problems. Been starting/running fine for a couple days now.
Thanks for all the help...
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