Complete Motor Flush?
Thread Starter
JDM whore
Joined: May 2002
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From: Virginia
Complete Motor Flush?
I just bought a used 95 Civic as some of you might know. Well, I want to clean the motor and everything up as much as possible. I am wondering what all kind I cleaners I should use and what method works best.
What all should I clean?
Radiator?
Fuel lines?
Basically, I want to know what kind of flushes I should do. I am also going to get new spark plugs(any auggestions?) and wires(suggestions?).
Just want to the clean the motor and fuel etc....... up for winter!
*Does this make since to anyone?*
Spike
What all should I clean?
Radiator?
Fuel lines?
Basically, I want to know what kind of flushes I should do. I am also going to get new spark plugs(any auggestions?) and wires(suggestions?).
Just want to the clean the motor and fuel etc....... up for winter!
*Does this make since to anyone?*
Spike
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
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From: upstate NY
be wary
Spike,
Don't run a chemical flush in the cooling system...I've had nothing but cooling problems since I've done that. Just drain and refill the cooling system. If you like, just run distilled water for an hour or so and then drain and refill with the cooland mix.
Fuel? Run a good cleaner like RedLine Si-1. If you feel the need to run a water displacer, make sure you only get the isopropyl based ones, the methyl ones break down over time.
Oil? I'd say run an oil with a high detergent content (even something like Shell Rotella) for a short stint, then change out again to whatever you plan on running. I've had good luck with Shaeffer's Neutra as an engine flush, but I sure don't keep it in there long. This also doubles as a top cylinder lubricant. Certainly, stay away from standard engine "flush" treatments, if you look at the contents, they're often just good old kerosene.
Something I do when I get a car is also flush out the brake fluid. It should be changed every once in a while and I'll bet yours is black as the sith.
For plugs and wires...hmm. I just run NGK and OEM wires. Make sure to replace the cap and rotor as well.
How is your battery? I replace the batteries after about six years or so. If it's original you might want to consider that as well.
Bogatyr
Don't run a chemical flush in the cooling system...I've had nothing but cooling problems since I've done that. Just drain and refill the cooling system. If you like, just run distilled water for an hour or so and then drain and refill with the cooland mix.
Fuel? Run a good cleaner like RedLine Si-1. If you feel the need to run a water displacer, make sure you only get the isopropyl based ones, the methyl ones break down over time.
Oil? I'd say run an oil with a high detergent content (even something like Shell Rotella) for a short stint, then change out again to whatever you plan on running. I've had good luck with Shaeffer's Neutra as an engine flush, but I sure don't keep it in there long. This also doubles as a top cylinder lubricant. Certainly, stay away from standard engine "flush" treatments, if you look at the contents, they're often just good old kerosene.
Something I do when I get a car is also flush out the brake fluid. It should be changed every once in a while and I'll bet yours is black as the sith.
For plugs and wires...hmm. I just run NGK and OEM wires. Make sure to replace the cap and rotor as well.
How is your battery? I replace the batteries after about six years or so. If it's original you might want to consider that as well.
Bogatyr
Thread Starter
JDM whore
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,114
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From: Virginia
Bogatyr--- Thanks man! Your post was really helpful.
What is the cap and rotor? How much will that cost to replace?
Any good batteries I should consider? Optima? I have a system, so I'm thinking a marine battery would be best?
Spike
What is the cap and rotor? How much will that cost to replace?
Any good batteries I should consider? Optima? I have a system, so I'm thinking a marine battery would be best?
Spike
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: upstate NY
cap & rotor
Spike,
The distributor cap and rotor are what I'm referring to. These should be replaced at each tune up...I do that about every 30k miles or so. Last time I checked, I think the rotor was about 10$ and the cap was about 30 or so...that was for a 1996 Civic.
Hmm, for the battery, I have an Optima Red Top in my Land Rover, but the CRX has a Die Hard Weather Handler as does the wife's Civic. My 1991 Civic beater has a Deka. If you do often run accessories on the battery, yes, an Optima would be a good choice. I got mine online from the BatteryMart, much better prices than available locally. But shop around and see what you find.
Bogatyr
The distributor cap and rotor are what I'm referring to. These should be replaced at each tune up...I do that about every 30k miles or so. Last time I checked, I think the rotor was about 10$ and the cap was about 30 or so...that was for a 1996 Civic.
Hmm, for the battery, I have an Optima Red Top in my Land Rover, but the CRX has a Die Hard Weather Handler as does the wife's Civic. My 1991 Civic beater has a Deka. If you do often run accessories on the battery, yes, an Optima would be a good choice. I got mine online from the BatteryMart, much better prices than available locally. But shop around and see what you find.
Bogatyr
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,033
Likes: 1
From: GA
I wouldn't suggest running an engine flush thru there. If there is any sludge/deposit buildup it'll be on none moving parts, and is better off staying there than breaking loose to travel throughout your engine. Take your oil cap off, and look inside around the valvetrain, that'll give you an idea of how often the oil was changed.