Is there any way to do it? The motor is out of the car sitting on a pallet.

I don't think I have a leakdown tester at my disposal, and even if I did, I don't have a mobile air compressor, so yeah...

Back story: Local guy has a b18b supposedly in great shape (97k, had 120psi across the board before removed) out of his friend's car. He wants $400 for it, which I would be happy to pay if it were really in good shape. But experience tells me to be weary of a good deal and suspect of a seller's claims about a used engine. h:

 

leak down h: or an impact gun on the puley to get it to spin fast enough to give an idea of compression by spinning the motor. This is super ghetto, and if you have an impact you have air and if you have air you should just do a leak down. Besides compression tests are they gay. They don't really give you the health of the motor like a leak down. Shit I could pour half a cap of oil in each cylinder before you show up even if its in a running car and be like oh wow look 130 across the board...leak down FTW.

 

electric impact :hsugh:

I seriously don't think I can leakdown test this motor before I buy it though. I'd have to buy it, then take it to Bear's shop and test (if he even has a leakdown tester).

Maybe I should offer $250 for the motor, and then the remaining $150 after I install it and it runs. h:

Also more back story: I just talked to hmotors and they said they'd probably have a b20z by the end of next week. So, now it comes down to whether I want a b20z with a startup warranty for $950 shipped or a b18b in questionable condition for $400 local. The mind boggles. My friends usually have spare turbos lying around, so the b18b does have that going for it :rick:

 

400 is a damn good deal, especially if it includes everything electronics wise.

 

really? for a b18b longblock..I figured that was about what they go for these days.

 

More thoughts on this? h:

 

b20z is more better n/a....b18b for bewst....

 

thank you for that wonderful insight

I was thinking more along the lines of bang/$....

:edit: now that I think about it, for less than half the price, the b18 does seem like the better option. I wont boost any time soon, but I guess it would be nice to have the option. I guess it all comes down to whether I can trust the seller about the miles/condition :/

 

wouldn't you build the bottom end anyhow since you are doin ls/vtec?

 

If I can get a good running motor into my car for $400, then no, I probably wouldn't build. I may hold onto my pr3 head for future projects/safe keeping/sell later.

I guess these are my options:

$950 = b20z good shape, running. Keep it stock and use it for mpg/autocross.

$400 = b18b supposedly good shape, but who knows. Keep it stock for a while, maybe boost later if I the parts are handy.

$150 = bad b18b with all the parts still there + lord knows how much $$$, time, etc for a built lsvtec. Worse mpg, and a lot more work, but would be fun. :edit: realistically, it would probably cost about $1000 for rods/pistons, new head gasket, various bearings, etc. So like $1200 which would be tough on the wallet fo sho. :hs: