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B20/vtec? What do you think?

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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Default B20/vtec? What do you think?

Ive been contemplating an si b16 for quite sometime in my 96ex..

reading various magazines and internet searches and so on, a B20 with a b16 head doesnt seem too terribly hard to do...

Im not interested in turbo'n at this point in my life, more like high compression, everyday street usage.

So the B20's got lots of torque, and that would be really nice.

What OEM bits would i want to hunt down in a High Comp b20block/b16head build? Obviously i need a tranny too.

Im talking cams, oil pumps, water pumps, pistons. Theres are conversion kit that i saw that give you some ARP studs, oil line, tap, gasket, etc that i saw for under $400... Also which specific block is best b20z??b20b?? which engine mounts...

My goals are more torque, realiability, decent MPG(lol), something fun to drive.

Right now i got a d16y8head and y7block. Its ok, but nothing super great obviously. I dont think i could justify a ITR or CTR complete swap atm, and the CTR is what i would go with if i did, but its torque seems lower(116 lb-ft@7300Compression Ratio: 10.4:1) vs B20Z1 (147bhp@6800rpm 9.2:1 Compresion ratio).
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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LS/VTEC and b20/VTEC =/= daily driver.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Civic2Scooby
LS/VTEC and b20/VTEC =/= daily driver.
please elaborate.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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It costs a lot of money to reliably build a frankenstein engine. I would just save the time and hassle and get a GSR swap, reliable and just as good.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Ls/vtec Ftmfw!
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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you don't just slap a vtec head on with a kit , to build it right costs $$$, GDR will be equally prced with better dd qualities. B20/vtec can be a great build, but fuck it for dd. Also b16b and b18c5 are for chumps and jdmfanboys
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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why does it cost alot for ls/vtec. buy the head for around 400-600 pending on year, b16/gsr/type r. possibly have it milled if it isnt perfectly flat and check the block and make sure it doesnt need decked. if both your surfaces are good, you need a 150 lsvtec kit and your good to go.
i would recommend arp bolts and a type r/gsr oil pump to ensure longevity
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by raiden571
why does it cost alot for ls/vtec. buy the head for around 400-600 pending on year, b16/gsr/type r. possibly have it milled if it isnt perfectly flat and check the block and make sure it doesnt need decked. if both your surfaces are good, you need a 150 lsvtec kit and your good to go.
i would recommend arp bolts and a type r/gsr oil pump to ensure longevity
cause if you want to use the upper RPMs you need to build the bottom end. Also if you are gonna build an N/A motor you want way more compression than what the stock block and vtec head are going to provide somewhere around 9.7:1 with a b18b and GSR head. You should also at least do CROME to get the most out of it. Toss in the other expenses and bang you coulda just boosted the stock motor and smoked it. I know not everyone wants boost and mad horsepower, but do do a ls/vtec properly it takes money.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by raiden571
why does it cost alot for ls/vtec. buy the head for around 400-600 pending on year, b16/gsr/type r. possibly have it milled if it isnt perfectly flat and check the block and make sure it doesnt need decked. if both your surfaces are good, you need a 150 lsvtec kit and your good to go.
i would recommend arp bolts and a type r/gsr oil pump to ensure longevity
What Lee said.

The whole point of an LSvtec or B20vtec is that it combines the long stroke and torque of the LS/B20 motor with the higher rpm capabilities of a vtec head. If you just throw a vtec head on a stock LS/b20 bottom end, you can't rev past 7k (and shouldn't rev past 6500 on a regular basis) without spinning bearings and destroying cionnecting rods. The vtec head only shines above 6k, so basically, you'd be better off just driving a stock b20 or LS motor.

In order to do a functional LSvtec/b20vtec, you need AT THE VERY LEAST to shot-peen the connecting rods and use ARP rod bolts... and that's if you want to go the chapest route. To have a motor that even remotely lives up to it's potential you'll need higher compression pistons (which for the b20, means aftermarket pistons)... at that point you might as well get better rods too, since even shot-peened, the LS/B20 rods were never meant to spin that fast.

So basically, if you want a good b20vtec, you need to tear down the motor and rebuild it with pricey parts. This is not your run of the mill honda motor... it is a project.

And in reference to the original poster: save your time and money and get a b18c.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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thank you all for the input.

Ok say i went with b18 or even a just a b16, what are a few ways to go about getting extra torque out them? Im down for a project. Im in no rush. Turbo not so interested in as i said before, all motor.

Every civic tuner that i meet on the street has a b18 swap, i guess im just interested in being a little different , hence the b20/vtec. The other day i met a dude who spent 5k on a b18 type R engine and he had his friend install it, i want to install my own. Im confident i could handle it. tuning it, i know there are plenty of dyno shops within my reach.

Last edited by MeanGreen; Aug 29, 2008 at 10:55 AM.
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