92si / old 95 GSR swap Check Engine Light
07-25-2008, 02:39 PM
#1
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92si / old 95 GSR swap Check Engine Light
Welp, got a check engine light for the first time in 10yrs of driving this swap. I can start up the engine, and I'm cool idling, when I hit about 50 for a prolonged period I get the light. Turn off, turn back on, same symptoms. I'm stumped...other than the CE light, no real symptoms...car sounds and drives fine.
Aside from a starter relay swap about 2 years ago and a mouse chewing my knock sensor lead last year (soldered it), it's been trouble-free. I changed the oil last week (10/30 syn, as usual) and filled the gas today, but those are the only variables. I checked the gas cap, and I had a good seal, also checked oil, no drips or leaks...level is cool, so I didn't F that up. I'm a hillbilly, so I live back a bumpy mile of dirt road, and it's hot if that matters (about 95F this week).
Any ideas what to check first? Any pointers are appreciated. Looks like I'm in for a weekend of troubleshooting....I'm getting too old for this!
If it turns out to be another mouse, I swear I'm gonna put a litter box in the back of my hatch and keep a cat in it!
take care,
Tec
Aside from a starter relay swap about 2 years ago and a mouse chewing my knock sensor lead last year (soldered it), it's been trouble-free. I changed the oil last week (10/30 syn, as usual) and filled the gas today, but those are the only variables. I checked the gas cap, and I had a good seal, also checked oil, no drips or leaks...level is cool, so I didn't F that up. I'm a hillbilly, so I live back a bumpy mile of dirt road, and it's hot if that matters (about 95F this week).
Any ideas what to check first? Any pointers are appreciated. Looks like I'm in for a weekend of troubleshooting....I'm getting too old for this!
If it turns out to be another mouse, I swear I'm gonna put a litter box in the back of my hatch and keep a cat in it!take care,
Tec
07-25-2008, 05:10 PM
#2
SDSU Basketball
check your engine code
When the check-engine light comes on, locate the two-pin connector (service check connector) underneath the dash, making sure not to grab the three-pin connector (data link connector), which can be easily distinguished by its, well, three pins. The connectors are located behind the passenger-side kick panel. Jump the two terminals with a scrap piece of wire or paper clip and turn the ignition switch to the on position. As with the '88-'91 ECU, the MIL indicates codes by blink length and quantity, however, the MIL light on the gauge cluster blinks since OBD-I ECUs don't feature built-in ECU LEDs. Similar to the '88-'91 chassis, codes one through nine are indicated by individual short blinks while codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit while the number of short blinks equals the second.
THESE ARE THE OBD-1 CHECK ENGINE CODES
MIL
0
Engine Control Module (ECM/ECU)
1
Heated 02 sensor
3
Manifold Absolutre Pressure (MAP Sensor)
4
Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP Sensor)
6
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor)
7
Throttle Position (TP sensor)
8
Top Dead Center Position (TDC sensor)
9
#1 Cylinder Position (CYP sensor)
10
Intake Air Temperature (IAT sensor)
13
Barometric Sensor (BARO sensor)
14
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV sensor)
15
Ignition Output Signal
16
Fuel Injector
17
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS sensor)
19
Lock Solenoid Valve (A/T trans)
20
Electrical Load Sensor (ELD sensor)
21
VTEC Solenoid (VTS)
22
VTEC Pressure Switch (VTPS sensor)
23
Knock Sensor (KS)
30
A/T FI Signal A
31
A/T FI Signal B
41
Heated 02 Sensor
43
Fuel Supply
MIL
0
Engine Control Module (ECM/ECU)
1
Heated 02 sensor
3
Manifold Absolutre Pressure (MAP Sensor)
4
Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP Sensor)
6
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor)
7
Throttle Position (TP sensor)
8
Top Dead Center Position (TDC sensor)
9
#1 Cylinder Position (CYP sensor)
10
Intake Air Temperature (IAT sensor)
13
Barometric Sensor (BARO sensor)
14
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV sensor)
15
Ignition Output Signal
16
Fuel Injector
17
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS sensor)
19
Lock Solenoid Valve (A/T trans)
20
Electrical Load Sensor (ELD sensor)
21
VTEC Solenoid (VTS)
22
VTEC Pressure Switch (VTPS sensor)
23
Knock Sensor (KS)
30
A/T FI Signal A
31
A/T FI Signal B
41
Heated 02 Sensor
43
Fuel Supply
07-25-2008, 06:15 PM
#3
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Damn, I shoulda known that...I've even done that before. With old age comes acute memory loss...
I'll update the post when I find the cause tomorrow. Thanks!
take care,
Tec
I'll update the post when I find the cause tomorrow. Thanks!
take care,
Tec
09-08-2008, 06:20 PM
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Just thought I'd follow-up. I pulled the code and it was the knock sensor (thanks!). Then I traced some wires and apparently I tossed a 12-pack of Coke on the passenger's floor, and it hit *just* right...caught the KS wire that I ran to my GSR ECU! 10 minutes and I was back in business!
Thanks again.
take care,
Tec
Thanks again.
take care,
Tec
09-08-2008, 10:40 PM
#7
F#%K JDM, USDM FTW
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Just thought I'd follow-up. I pulled the code and it was the knock sensor (thanks!). Then I traced some wires and apparently I tossed a 12-pack of Coke on the passenger's floor, and it hit *just* right...caught the KS wire that I ran to my GSR ECU! 10 minutes and I was back in business!
Thanks again.
take care,
Tec
Thanks again.
take care,
Tec
I had a problem the other day, that turned out to be a small bolt sitting in between the starter motor and selonoid.
When I would gas it to about 5k, all the electrical things in the car would shut off and the motor would lose power for a second. Pulled open the hood, revved it, and saw sparks shooting out by the starter. Pulled the battery cable, so nothing would fry, turned out being a damn bolt stuck between the start and was shirting the electrical out.
