Temperature sensor
Thread Starter
Wanderer
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,793
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From: Not so Sunny Cali
Temperature sensor
After replacing what I thought was everything that has to do with the cooling system, I recently found out that there is another sensor that is below the distributor (93 civic coupe with D15).
Would this sensor have anything to do with my temp gauge not moving?
I know the temp gauge works (it has shot up before when my car did overheat), and I've replaced all the fuses and sensors associated with it (except the one mentioned above) but would just like opinions if anybody knoew if this has anything to do with the temp gauge not going to the halfway mark during normal everyday driving.
Would this sensor have anything to do with my temp gauge not moving?
I know the temp gauge works (it has shot up before when my car did overheat), and I've replaced all the fuses and sensors associated with it (except the one mentioned above) but would just like opinions if anybody knoew if this has anything to do with the temp gauge not going to the halfway mark during normal everyday driving.
v-card member alpha
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,010
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From: Assplosion, NE
Where does the needle get to?
I don't know the specifics of the temp gauge sensor but I know that the thermoswitch (turns cooling fan on) can get progressively bad, so instead of just not working all of a sudden, it will take longer (more heat) for the fan to turn on over time. Maybe that sensor is still working but doesn't have the sensitivity it did when new.
Regardless, the thermoswitch and the sensor that reads the temp for the ECU are most important. As long as the thermostat opens and there's coolant in the radiator. (no heat w/out both)
I'm sure you already know most or all of that, randomtask77, meant more for others.
I don't know the specifics of the temp gauge sensor but I know that the thermoswitch (turns cooling fan on) can get progressively bad, so instead of just not working all of a sudden, it will take longer (more heat) for the fan to turn on over time. Maybe that sensor is still working but doesn't have the sensitivity it did when new.
Regardless, the thermoswitch and the sensor that reads the temp for the ECU are most important. As long as the thermostat opens and there's coolant in the radiator. (no heat w/out both)
I'm sure you already know most or all of that, randomtask77, meant more for others.
Thread Starter
Wanderer
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,793
Likes: 0
From: Not so Sunny Cali
Where does the needle get to?
I don't know the specifics of the temp gauge sensor but I know that the thermoswitch (turns cooling fan on) can get progressively bad, so instead of just not working all of a sudden, it will take longer (more heat) for the fan to turn on over time. Maybe that sensor is still working but doesn't have the sensitivity it did when new.
Regardless, the thermoswitch and the sensor that reads the temp for the ECU are most important. As long as the thermostat opens and there's coolant in the radiator. (no heat w/out both)
I'm sure you already know most or all of that, randomtask77, meant more for others.
I don't know the specifics of the temp gauge sensor but I know that the thermoswitch (turns cooling fan on) can get progressively bad, so instead of just not working all of a sudden, it will take longer (more heat) for the fan to turn on over time. Maybe that sensor is still working but doesn't have the sensitivity it did when new.
Regardless, the thermoswitch and the sensor that reads the temp for the ECU are most important. As long as the thermostat opens and there's coolant in the radiator. (no heat w/out both)
I'm sure you already know most or all of that, randomtask77, meant more for others.
The first thing I did was switch out the thermoswitch (the one that is near the thermostat). Then I eventually changed out everything else. Radiator, the fan, radiator cap, thermostat, both upper and lower hoses and clamps. The fuse to the fan that is under the hood. The fuse that is under the dash and obviously the coolant. The only thing that I didn't get to replace was the sensor that is below the distributor (which I didn't know about til recently).
I thought I had a thermostat stuck open until I replaced that as well and I was still getting the same result.
v-card member alpha
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 0
From: Assplosion, NE
Alright, here goes...
What you'll see looking at it from the front of the car:
This is what you'll see if you stick your face down there for a better look:
This is with the camera phone all up in there:
The Coolant Temp. Sending Unit should be torqued down to 7ft-lbs. (or tight, but not too tight, with a ratchet as I would do it) and you should use liquid gasket on the threads.
It's not that uncommon for people to mistake the TW Sensor (not switch as I labeled it in one pic) for the Temp. Gauge Sender. Unrelated to your Q but incase someone's wondering, the TW Sensor should be torqued to 13ft-lbs. whereas the Thermoswitch, even though they look alike, should be about 17ft-lbs.
This should apply to all 5th gen ('92-'95) Civics. The pics are from my USDM '92 EX.
Hope that helps.
What you'll see looking at it from the front of the car:
This is what you'll see if you stick your face down there for a better look:
This is with the camera phone all up in there:
The Coolant Temp. Sending Unit should be torqued down to 7ft-lbs. (or tight, but not too tight, with a ratchet as I would do it) and you should use liquid gasket on the threads.
It's not that uncommon for people to mistake the TW Sensor (not switch as I labeled it in one pic) for the Temp. Gauge Sender. Unrelated to your Q but incase someone's wondering, the TW Sensor should be torqued to 13ft-lbs. whereas the Thermoswitch, even though they look alike, should be about 17ft-lbs.
This should apply to all 5th gen ('92-'95) Civics. The pics are from my USDM '92 EX.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by A-series; Oct 12, 2007 at 01:59 AM.